Plants brighten up any room, help clean the air and bring a bit of nature inside, but indoor spaces rarely have the same levels of bright, natural light many plants enjoy in their native habitats. Without adequate light, a plant’s foliage may be dull or turn yellow or brown, growth will be slow and flowers may fail to bloom. Choosing low light houseplants is an ideal solution for any indoor space, and there are many beautiful plants that can thrive in a dim environment.

20 Best Houseplants for Low Light

There are many reasons to opt for low light houseplants. Some rooms, such as bedrooms and bathrooms, generally have lower than average light levels. Some homeowners use window shades, blinds or curtains for temperature control, which reduces the light available for indoor plants. Even bright rooms may have dim corners or shadowed spaces where light isn’t as intense. The exposure of any window also affects the sunlight it brings indoors, with north and west windows generally having lower light than south and east windows. Changing seasons also changes how much sunlight comes through any window, with less light available to indoor plants in fall and winter. Fortunately, there are many outstanding houseplants that can grow well in lower light conditions. While the best plants for your home will also vary based on humidity conditions and the care you can provide, houseplants that don’t mind lower light include:

• Begonia (Begonia)
• Bromeliads (Aechmea)
• Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
• Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
• Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans)
• Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
• Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
• Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena)
• Maindenhair Fern (Adiantum)
• Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
• Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
• Peperomia (Peperomia)
• Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
• Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
• Prayer Plant (Calathea)
• Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica)
• Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
• Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)
• Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum)
• ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

These are just a few of the most widespread, popular indoor plants that can do well with lower light levels. Check at your local nursery or garden center for additional varieties that are adapted to your region’s climate, especially during the winter months when houseplants are much more widely available.

Caring for Low Light Houseplants

It is important to note that whatever type of houseplant you choose, a designation as “low light” does not mean the plant can thrive in darkness. All plants need some light, but low light plants can still thrive in indirect or filtered light rather than several hours of bright sunlight each day. To give your low light plant the very best indoor habitat, you will also need…

• A proper pot or other container.
  The pot will need to be the right size for the plant and its anticipated growth, without being too big or too small. Adequate drainage is also essential to prevent root rot and other care difficulties.
• Suitable soil or potting mix.
  Garden soil has too many contaminants to be good for houseplants, but choose a soil with good nutrition for the type of plant it will nurture. Add coir, peat or other potting material if necessary to adjust the soil composition.
• Proper watering.
  Inadequate water or overwatering can both be deadly for houseplants. Know what water your plant needs and adjust the watering schedule based on the plant’s size and seasonal needs throughout the year. Watering gauges or automatic watering tools can help you be sure you aren’t drowning or drying out your houseplants.
• Regular feeding.
  Because houseplants rely on the same soil and can’t stretch their roots out to seek extra nutrition, regular fertilizing is essential. Choose the proper fertilizer for the plant type and feed gently rather than risk burning delicate roots with overfeeding. Slow-release fertilizers formulated for indoor plants are one of the best options.
• Increased humidity.
  Indoor air is often much drier than the air outside, and houseplants can dry out more quickly without the proper humidity. Adding a humidifier in a room with houseplants, grouping plants together, misting regularly and providing a humidity tray are all ways to help.
• Occasional dusting.
  With no regular breezes to blow away debris, houseplants can become dull and dingy without being dusted, and dust can clog their pores. Use a soft, clean cloth to gently wipe the foliage, or give plants an occasional shower to rinse away unwanted dust.

Every home can be made brighter with houseplants, even in darker rooms where there wouldn’t seem to be enough light. By choosing the right low light houseplants and caring for them appropriately, even a shadowy corner of your home can be a restful bit of nature.

It’s cold outside and the compost pile is frozen. Do you really feel like hauling kitchen scraps out into the winter wasteland only to have them picked through by scavengers when there isn’t enough bacteria available to break them down? Fortunately, there is an alternative. Keep your kitchen scraps cooking this winter and producing buckets of black gold for the garden next spring while you stay warm and cozy. Try the three-bucket system in your basement or heated garage – no odor, no pests and very easy!

The 3-Bucket System

Try these easy steps for the 3-bucket composting system in your basement or heated garage, where there is just enough warmth to keep the system operating without the microbes and outer layers of the compost freezing. Five-gallon painter buckets with lids work great or plastic trash cans with lids make the job a cinch. Even better are cans with wheels, so you can easily move your compost out to the garden for spring use!

1. Fill bucket #1 with sawdust or peat moss mixed with equal parts dry soil. Add a little limestone and cover with lid.
2. On the bottom of bucket #2, place about one inch of dry straw, leaves or shredded newspaper. Dump your kitchen scraps on top as they become available, each time sprinkling on some of the sawdust/soil mixture from bucket #1 to absorb odors and excess moisture. If you have a lot of scraps to add all at one time, portion them out and add as smaller amounts, covering each addition with the sawdust/soil mixture. Replace the lid after each addition. If there are any large pieces of scraps you may want to chop them smaller before adding to help speed the decomposition process. If your scraps are holding excess water, let them drain well before adding them to the bucket.
3. When bucket #2 is full start filling bucket #3, using the same process you used with bucket #2. By the time bucket #3 is full, the contents of bucket #2 should be well on the way to becoming compost. Despite calling this the 3-bucket system, you can actually keep adding as many buckets as you need through the winter, but number them appropriately so you can keep track of which ones are most composted to be used first.
4. Use and enjoy in the spring!

While the 3-bucket compost system won’t replace your compost pile, it’s still a great way to continue composting through the winter so you have plenty of rich, organic material to add to your garden in spring. Don’t let the scraps and waste from winter days be lost in the trash – turn that trash to treasure for your garden!

Whether you just plant a few tomatoes, herbs and some lettuce or an elaborate garden complete with exotic selections of lesser known veggies, you’ll want to rotate your crops each year. All types of vegetable crops – brassicas, onions, legumes and root crops – require a slightly different blend of nutrients and trace elements, even if their light and water requirements are similar. If you always grow your tomatoes in the same place, eventually the soil will become exhausted of the nutrients that tomatoes require the most, and the crop will become weaker and less productive. Meanwhile, another vegetable could easily thrive in that location and its growth would help replenish the nutrients that tomatoes may need in future years. If you rotate crops in and out, you’ll enrich the soil and enjoy larger, more productive, more flavorful harvests.

The easiest way to rotate your vegetables is to use a 3-year plan. First, you’ll need to decide which vegetables you plan to grow, then divide them into these three main groups:

Group 1:
Peas
Beans
Celery
Onions
Lettuce
Spinach
Sweet Corn
Tomatoes
Zucchini

Group 2:
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Rutabaga
Turnip
Radishes

Group 3:
Beets
Carrots
Parsnips
Potatoes

It’s all right if you don’t plant to grow vegetables from each group. Simply adjust your rotation plan to compensate, or even consider trying out a new vegetable to complete the rotation and expand the variety of your garden.

Next, draw a plan of your garden and mark where each group of plants will go, keeping in mind the light and watering requirements of different varieties. It may help to sketch out the boundaries of each group, noting which plants are part of which rows, boxes, containers or beds. Keep those notes and sketches in your garden journal, and also take notes throughout the growing season about which plants perform best and which may be struggling. Next year, move the plants accordingly to shift where different crops are located. If you choose to add new vegetables to your garden, start them in the location with their appropriate group and bring them right into the rotation scheme.

As you rotate crops each year, you will notice consistently lush, healthy plants, bountiful harvests and delicious produce. After a few growing seasons, rotating your vegetable crops will be second nature and will be an important part of your gardening plan to ensure only the best comes from your garden.

You’ve removed late-autumn weeds, layered on the mulch, pruned appropriately, possibly even covered or wrapped your plants – so why do some still die in the winter, despite all your well-meaning efforts?

Many plants die during winter because they dry out, or desiccate. As temperatures drop, the ground freezes and plant roots cannot take water from the soil, no matter how much snow may fall. This causes the plant to use stored water from the leaves and stems as part of the transpiration process, during which water exits the plant through the leaves. If the sun is shining or the wind is blowing, transpiration increases and more water exits the leaves. If no water is available and transpiration continues, the plant will soon die. Because evergreen plants do not drop their leaves, they are especially susceptible to this death.

Preventing Desiccation

How can you help your plants stay well-hydrated through the frozen drought of winter? The first step is to remember healthy plants in the summer survive the hardships of winter far better than sickly or stressed plants. Through the spring, summer and fall, you should always be on the lookout for signs of pests, diseases and damage, and take all necessary steps to keep your plants thriving.

Second, be sure to water well even when temperatures begin dropping below freezing. Later, if the ground thaws, water before the ground refreezes. Water slowly to provide a deep drink without waterlogging the roots, however, so they are not damaged by ice.

The third step is to use an anti-desiccant, also called an anti-transpirant, to reduce the moisture loss from the leaves and needles. Because broadleaf evergreens such as boxwood, aucuba, holly, rhododendron, many laurels, Japanese skimmia and leucothoe do not drop their leaves, they are especially vulnerable to winter death. Using a product such as Wilt-Pruf to reduce transpiration by protecting the pores will save many broadleaf evergreens.

When using any horticultural product, be sure to check the label and follow all instructions properly. Some conifers such as cedar, cypress, juniper and pine may benefit from these products. However, be sure to read the instructions to prevent burning specific conifers. Also, do not use on “waxy” blue conifers, such as blue spruce, which already have an oily protective film on the nettles.

Here are a few reminders to get the best protection from an anti-desiccant:

• Plan to apply when day temperatures begin dropping below 50⁰ Fahrenheit. Apply when temperatures are above freezing on a dry day with no rain or snow anticipated within 24 hours. This allows the product to thoroughly dry. Spraying in freezing temperatures will cause plant damage.
• Do not spray conifers until thoroughly dormant, generally in late winter. This prevents trapping moisture in the needles which could burst when frozen.
• Generously apply to dry leaves and needles. Don’t forget the undersides. Spray from several angles to ensure complete coverage.
• Because the anti-desiccant will break down in light and warmth, reapply in late winter on a dry day when temperatures are above freezing for at least 24 hours.

Beyond Winter Drought

Other than protecting your landscape evergreens from winter drought, there are other uses for anti-desiccants. Many gardeners use it to protect newly transplanted shrubs from drying winds and sunshine as they settle in. It also provides protection to tender bulbs going into storage. A quick spray in early winter protects rose canes and hydrangea stems. Spraying onto live or cut Christmas trees and carved pumpkins slows the drying process, making them last longer for greater holiday enjoyment.

Have you tried vermicomposting, otherwise known as worm composting? This simple process mixes food scraps with yard waste and other organic materials in an enclosed area containing specific types of worms. The worms (and associated microorganisms) eat the organics and turn them into a beautiful light and fertile soil amendment. This compost is almost magical! It’s packed with nutrients, improves soil structure, increases drainage and appears to improve plant growth while decreasing pest damage and plant diseases. Not only environmentally friendly, vermicomposting doesn’t require much space, is inexpensive and easy, and it’s a fun hobby for the entire family.

The Worms

The two recommended worms for vermicomposting are Red Wigglers (Eisenia fetida) and European night crawlers (Eisenia hortensis). The latter grows bigger, eats coarser food and may be heartier. They each eat their own weight in food every other day. Do not use native earthworms, as they do not live well in bin conditions.

Most people begin with 1 lb (16 ounces) of worms. These will eat 8 ounces of food every day.

TIP: To determine your average daily food waste, weigh your food debris each day for a week. Add these amounts and divide by 7. (Do not include meat, fish, oily scraps, fat chunks, bones, or dairy products, as they are not suitable for the worms or compost.)

When you know your amount of food debris, buy twice as many pounds of worms. For example, if your average daily food debris is 1 pound, order 2 pounds of worms. If your average daily food debris is 4 ounces, order 8 ounces of worms.

The Worm Bin

Your worms will need a comfortable place to live. Provide a bin with a surface area that equals the weight of the worm order. In other words, if you order 2 pounds of worms, your worm container will require at least 2 square feet of bin surface (but should be larger). This could be 1’ wide by 2’ long.

Use non-treated wood, plastic, rubber or galvanized bins. A larger container houses more worms to compost more material. Worms do not burrow deeper than 24” therefore the bin should be less than 24” deep.

The bin needs a removable cover to protect from rain, light and drying out. Remove it if the bedding becomes too wet, but place a screen across the top to prevent worms from escaping. If needed, use a moistened strip of burlap or canvas to add moisture to the bin.

Unless using wood, which is naturally porous, provide ventilation in your bin by drilling 12-18 1/8” holes on all four sides. Drill holes on the bottom to prevent your worms drowning if moisture builds up.

Remember, your worm population will increase. When sizing your bin, allow an additional 40 percent of surface area for the increase in addition to the initial population’s requirement.

Positioning Your Bin

Where you put your bin should be convenient for both you and your worms. Elevate the container on bricks to improve ventilation and drainage of excess moisture.

Place the worm bin where it will not receive direct sunlight. In a shed or garage, under house eaves or other shade structure to maintain a temperature above freezing and below 85 degrees is perfect. In the winter, prevent freezing and insulate with sheets of foam on the top and sides, add a heating pad to one side, or move inside a building if needed.

Bin Bedding

Before adding your worms, you will need to add bedding to the container so they have a place to burrow. Soak and squeeze out the excess water from shredded fibrous materials such as newspaper, egg cartons or single-layer cardboard boxes. Mix in dry grass, brown leaves and/or straw. Add sawdust or aged manure, if available. Cover with a thin layer of well-moistened soil. This bedding will give your worms a great start and will help feed your compost.

Feeding Your Worms

Until your worms begin multiplying, only feed them once a week by adding a small amount of food scraps. Chopping or breaking food into small bits helps the worms eat the scraps faster and reduces any smells and fruit flies. Mix the food lightly into the bedding on one side of the worm bin.

Ideal foods to offer your worms include eggshells, non-citrus fruits, coffee grounds, unbleached used coffee filters, leafy green vegetables, rice, grits and vegetable scraps. Do not include meat, fish, oily scraps, fat chunks, bones, dairy products such as milk or cheese or cat or dog waste. Avoid eucalyptus leaves, as these contain a natural insecticide which could kill the worms. Additionally, if adding lawn clippings, be sure the grass hasn’t been chemically treated. Green foods such as leaves, vegetable tops and green grass add additional nitrogen to the finished compost. Eggshells increase the calcium in the final compost and brown foods such as paper, wood chips and leaves increase phosphate and carbon. The more varied your worms’ diet, the richer your compost will be.

When the worms begin to multiply, provide a weekly quart of food scraps per square foot of surface area. If your bin is 2’ square, provide 4 quarts of scraps per week to nourish your worms, but avoid overfeeding. One way to tell if you are feeding too much is by smell. If it smells bad, food is rotting instead of being eaten. Reduce the amount of food going into the bin until the smell disappears.

When adding food, be sure to check the amount of bedding. The bin was full of bedding when the worms were added. When reduced to half, add more newspaper or cardboard strips, hay, straw, etc.

Watering Your Worms

Check the bin every other day and moisten the material, if needed. It should be moist but not wet. Note that the types of scraps you add will contribute to the moisture in the bin, and you do not want any puddles or sopping that could suffocate and drown your worms.

Harvesting Compost

Your worm-assisted compost should be ready in 4-6 months. The easiest way to collect the compost is to scoop out small piles of the material and place onto a flat surface. Remove as many worms as possible and return the un-composted materials and worms to the bin. You may use a wire mesh netting as a screening device. Add more bedding and let the cycle begin again.

After removing the worms and chunks, what’s left? The grand prize of worm castings (poop)! This is the “magical compost.” Some people even call it “black gold” – it’s that fantastic for your garden.

Raising worms and producing your own super compost is easy and fun. Plus, it removes food waste from the local landfills and enriches your garden. What’s not to love?

No matter what the size or style of your own personal urban habitat, you can add stunning nature with the right houseplants. Furthermore, when you grow your own urban jungle, you can realize and enjoy all the benefits houseplants bring to your home.

Benefits of Urban Houseplants

Houseplants bring a range of benefits into any home with every leaf and bloom. Not only do plants improve oxygen levels by drawing carbon dioxide from the air, they also remove other pollutants and odors, particularly in smaller urban homes where airborne toxins may be more concentrated. Houseplants also lower dust levels and improve humidity indoors, which can help alleviate allergies, respiratory conditions, dry skin, and other health problems. Larger houseplants help dampen unwanted sounds, creating a more tranquil atmosphere. Studies have also shown that houseplants improve mood and relaxation by providing a tangible connection to nature, which can help reduce depression and Seasonal Affective Disorder. With so many benefits, adding even one or two houseplants to your home can help create more positive, enjoyable surroundings, and a full urban jungle can become your sanctuary in the city.

Best Plants for an Urban Home

There are many types of houseplants to choose from, any of which will bring numerous benefits to your home. Before choosing, however, consider the levels of sunlight in your home, as well as changing light levels throughout the year, to be sure you can provide adequate light for a particular plant to flourish. Overall room temperatures can also affect plants, as some thrive in cooler climates while others prefer warmer rooms. Note the available space you have and choose a plant that won’t soon become crowded or cramped, which can inhibit growth. Also be aware of the ongoing care each plant will need and whether your schedule will permit you to maintain the plant well, or if you need a plant that is a bit more forgiving of neglect.

The top houseplants that thrive in urban households include:

• African violets
• Cacti
• Cast iron plant
• Dracaena species
• Dumb cane
• Ferns
• Golden pothos
• Lucky bamboo
• Peace lily
• Snake plants
• Spider plants
• Succulents

Depending on the size of your home and how green your thumb is, you may choose to start with just one or two houseplants, or you could opt for an entire jungle. Ideally, one medium-sized houseplant is best for every 100 square feet of living space to keep the air clean, but you can have as many or as few plants as you wish for your happiness.

Caring for an Urban Jungle

It is easy to keep houseplants lush, but they do need dedicated care to stay healthy.

• Choose a Proper Pot – The pot should be the right size for your houseplant. A too-small pot will cramp the plant and inhibit growth, while a too-large pot will encourage overgrowth and legginess on different plants. The pot should also have suitable drainage to keep the root system healthy and avoid rot.
• Use Good Quality Soil – Rather than outdoor soil that may not be as rich and could bring pests into your home, opt for a good quality potting mix formulated for houseplants. These mixes will often have moisture-retention beads or fertilizer pre-mixed into the soil, making houseplant care easier. You can also look for specialty blends for cacti, succulents, flowering plants, and other specific types of houseplants.
• Water Appropriately – Overwatering or underwatering can be deadly for houseplants. Check your plant’s specific watering needs and adjust watering as needed for different seasons. Choosing self-watering pots or using globe watering stakes can also help keep a houseplant safely watered.
• Feed Regularly – Houseplants need occasional fertilizer applications to supplement the nutrition they draw from their potting soil. Choose a liquid fertilizer formulated for your specific plants and follow application instructions on the product label. Most houseplants’ nutritional needs are reduced during the winter months.
• Provide Sufficient Light – Different houseplants have different sunlight needs. Some will do very well in shadier spots, while others need filtered light or even a few hours of bright sunlight. Moving plants to different locations in different seasons can help them get adequate light and rotating the pots will help plants grow straight without stretching to reach the sun.
• Position Safely – Place houseplants away from hazardous situations such as areas where they may be accidentally tripped or tipped over. Avoid creating your urban jungle near heating or cooling vents and cold winter drafts. Keep houseplants out of reach of pets that may nibble on leaves or dig in pots.
• Prune as Needed – Keep your urban jungle looking tidy by pruning and trimming plants to maintain their shapes or remove dead leaves. Brown tips can also be trimmed for a neater appearance but avoid vigorous pruning that could stress the plant.
• Watch for Pests – Fungus gnats, mealybugs, spider mites, and other pests can invade even the most well-protected urban jungle. Stay alert for any pests and take steps immediately if they do appear. Plant-friendly insecticidal soaps, top dressing treatments, neem oil, and other control options are available depending on which pests are present.
• Clean Your Plants – Refresh houseplants and brighten your urban jungle with regular cleanings. Dust, dirt, and other debris can gather on plants’ foliage, clogging respiratory pores and dulling the plants’ color. A quick rinse in the shower or regular dusting with a moistened cloth and a gentle hand can keep plants looking their best.

Your urban jungle can bring you many benefits, whether you just have one or two houseplants, a simple plant collection, or an elaborate nature sanctuary in your home. By choosing the best plants for urban living and providing them with proper care, they will in turn nurture you and help you reconnect with nature, no matter where you live.

Many pet owners are surprised to learn that some popular houseplants are toxic to pets. Fortunately, there are many beautiful, pet-friendly houseplants that can create an urban jungle that won’t endanger your pets.

Top 15 Pet-Friendly Houseplants

There are a variety of plants, ranging from easy-care for beginners to the more challenging for experienced growers, that are pet-friendly. The top choices, suitable for homes with both dogs and cats include…

1. Air Plants – Petite and low-maintenance, air plants or tillandsia varieties come in different shapes and colors, and make great statement pieces in offices, bedrooms, or any space. They’re ideal for beginners, and work well attached to driftwood, rocks, or set in a terrarium.
2. Spider Plant – A great plant for beginners because of its forgiving nature, the spider plant may have either striped or plain foliage that cascades in elegant curves. This easy-care plant looks best when hung or may be perched on a pedestal for a similar effect.
3. Ponytail Palm – While this palm-like plant is actually part of the agave family, it is an excellent air purifier and its long, slender foliage adds welcome variety to a houseplant grouping. This plant prefers full sun and can grow up to four feet tall indoors.
4. African Violet – A classic blooming houseplant with rich purple, pink, magenta, or white flowers and broad, velvety leaves, the African violet is a pet-friendly favorite. These colorful plants are compact, making them great for smaller spaces in the urban jungle.
5. Boston Fern – The delicate, feathery foliage of the Boston fern prefers filtered light and a higher humidity environment, making it great in bathrooms. Hang the plant to show off its foliage to best effect, or perch it on top of a bookshelf or pedestal instead.
6. Wheat Grass – Also called cat grass or pet grass, is a lawn-like houseplant that is fun for pets to nibble at. While wheat grass is relatively easy to grow, it does require regular “mowing” with appropriate shears to stay full and lush.
7. Cast Iron Plant – This extremely hardy plant is great for beginners and tolerates all types of neglect, including low light, low humidity, and irregular watering. This makes it a wonderful houseplant for anyone just starting with plants or who find it difficult to offer scheduled care.
8. Polka Dot Plant – The colorful splashes of pink on this plant’s foliage make it a bright addition to any indoor jungle, and it can be a pet-friendly alternative to the highly toxic poinsettia during the holidays. Bright, indirect light is best to help this plant keep its fun coloration.
9. Blue Echeveria – This popular succulent is also known as hen-and-chicks and works best in bright light but with low watering. The entire echeveria family of succulents is pet-friendly, so feel free to try different varieties for more colors, sizes, and shapes.
10. Bromeliad – These bold plants have colorful blooms and dramatic foliage, making them favorite statement pieces in the urban jungle. Bright light will help bring out the most color, and good airflow will help keep the plant free of pests and other problems.
11. Prayer Plant – The colorful, striped foliage of the prayer plant, plus its unique habit of “folding” its foliage at night, make it a houseplant favorite. Bright, indirect light and high humidity will help keep this plant healthy and lush.
12. Donkey’s Tail – A dramatically draping succulent, donkey’s tail is best displayed where its trailing can be fully appreciated, such as hanging the plant or placing it on a taller ledge, such as a shelf, so it has room to shine. This is an easy-care option perfect for anyone starting with succulents.
13. Moth Orchids – While many orchids can be challenging, Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, is easy to grow and a great orchid for the beginner. Phalaenopsis Orchids are and are available in white, pink, and mauve, some even have unique marking on their petals.
14. Haworthia – A spikey succulent similar to aloe, this dramatic plant is an eye-catching option in any home. There are several varieties available, most with white stripes, bars, or stippling to give the plant additional drama and color.
15. Basil – If you prefer fresh herbs for tasty meals, basil is a low-maintenance, pet-friendly choice that is deliciously fragrant and ideal for sauces, stews, and salads. Other pet-friendly herbs include rosemary, thyme, and sage.

Protecting Your Houseplants From Pets

It’s important to remember that even if a houseplant is considered pet-friendly, pets that nibble on the foliage may have some digestive trouble, particularly if they were to eat a large quantity of the plant. Furthermore, pets can stress plants by tipping pots, laying on the plant, digging in the dirt, or otherwise disturbing the plant. For the safest relationship between your houseplants and your pets, you can take several steps to help them get along.

• Position houseplants out of reach of pets, or in a room pets are not permitted to enter.
• Train pets to leave houseplants alone and reinforce that training whenever necessary.
• Use heavier clay, concrete, or ceramic pots that pets will be unable to easily tip.
• Use stones as a top dressing so pets are unable to dig in the plant’s soil.
• Spray the pot or foliage with bitter apple or other pet repellant sprays if needed.

Houseplants can be just as much a part of your family as any four-legged, furry family members, and by choosing pet-friendly houseplants, your pets can get along with your urban jungle just fine.

As a new year begins, so do our garden plans. Winter is now halfway through; day length is increasing, and exhilarating notions of having the best garden ever consume our thoughts almost daily. Here are some resolutions to help make your dreams come true this gardening season.

• PLAN – A little garden planning goes a long way. Layout your garden design for vegetables, herbs, and flowers, even trees and shrubs, to maximize space, efficiency, and beauty.
• IMPROVE – Healthy soil equals healthy plants. A soil test will tell you what needs improvement. Add the recommended amendments to feed both the soil and plants for a vibrant, beautiful, and productive garden. Resolving to stick to a regular weeding, feeding, and watering schedule will also help improve your garden results.
• START – There’s just something special about starting seeds indoors. Maybe it’s the improved cultivar selection, the excitement of beginning a new gardening year, or simply getting your hands in the soil during the winter months. Whatever the reason, it’s beneficial to get a jumpstart on the season by starting and growing seedlings under grow lights.
• TRY – This year, resolve to try something new every season. Experiment with one unusual vegetable, herb, or flower. This is an excellent way to increase both plant and garden knowledge and may result in a delightful, unexpected outcome.
• ATTRACT – Plant more bee-friendly plants to attract pollinators. Some of the best plants for this purpose are native. Be sure to include early, mid, and late-season bloomers to ensure that veggie plants are pollinated and producing and to keep pollinators active, plump, and happy all growing season long.
• IMPART – What greater gift can you impart to children than a lifelong love of gardening? This year, involve the whole family, from youngest to oldest, by giving kids their own small plot, raised bed, or container to plant, nurture, and learn from.
• PRESERVE – Don’t allow your hard work to go to waste. Harvest fruits, vegetables, and herbs at peak ripeness when they are their tastiest. Preserve the abundance. Can, freeze, or dry extra produce so you can enjoy homegrown all year.

This list will start you on your New Year’s gardening journey. Feel free to add to this list to personalize it. Use it to evaluate your successes at the end of the year and for planning purposes next January as you resolve, yet again, to have the best garden ever!