It’s not unusual for houseplants to become infested with different pests, but with conscientious care, even the most tenacious pests can be controlled. By acting quickly when pests are first noticed, you can completely remove the infestation and keep your houseplants healthy and thriving.

Top 5 Common Houseplant Pests and Controlling Them

Different plants may be susceptible to different types of pests depending on your home’s environmental conditions and the plants’ overall health. These pests, however, are the most widespread houseplant pests….

Fungus Gnats

These tiny, flying pests don’t do any harm to houseplants in their mature, adult form, but fungus gnat larvae live in houseplant soil and feed on organic material. This not only robs the plant of nutrition, but the larvae may nibble on the plant’s roots as well. While they don’t cause much overall damage to an otherwise healthy plant, fungus gnats can be very irritating when they form cloud-like flocks around a plant’s foliage.

Overwatering in rich soil encourages fungus gnats, and they can be notoriously difficult to eradicate. Reducing watering so the top 1-2 inches of soil can dry out is the first step, but it is often best to completely repot an infested plant. The roots should be rinsed carefully to remove any lingering larvae, and if the same pot will be reused, it must be sterilized first. Use well-draining soil or water the plant from the bottom to make the soil less attractive to fungus gnats. You may also mix diatomaceous earth into the soil to deter these pests, add additional perlite to the soil to increase drainage, use a fine gravel top dressing, or apply Bt var. israelensis (Bti or H-14 strain) to organically kill fungus gnat larvae. Another tried and true product for that is Bonide Systemic House Plant Insect Control. This comes in granular form.

Mealybugs

These sap-sucking insects are no more than a half-inch long and have a white or light gray fluffy appearance. They are typically seen along the stems of houseplants, especially in the joints where foliage sprouts. As they suck the plant’s sap, the leaves wither and wilt. Yellowing leaves can also be another sign of a mealybug infestation, particularly if leaves are yellowing throughout the plant rather than just older bottom foliage.

When a houseplant is heavily infested with mealybugs, the fastest way to control the pests is to prune away infected foliage and discard of it carefully. If the infestation is light, however, the bugs can be deterred with a Neem oil spray or rubbing alcohol. Apply the alcohol directly to the pests with a cotton ball or swab to kill them.

Spider Mites

These pests can be very destructive to all houseplants and can be challenging to get rid of. The mites themselves are so tiny that they may not be noticeable even with a heavier infestation, but their webs on the undersides of foliage or stretching between stems will be easier to see. Leaves that show yellow stippling may also indicate a spider mite infestation.

Spider mites thrive in dry conditions, so keeping houseplants’ humidity high is a good way to deter them. Running a humidifier, frequent misting, grouping pots together, and sitting pots on water filled pebble tray are all helpful solutions. When the bugs are present, neem oil spray should be used weekly to remove them and keep them from returning. Alternatively, light cleaning with insecticidal soap is also an effective way to control spider mites.

Aphids

While better known for their outdoor infestations, aphids can also be a problem on indoor houseplants. They are tiny insects, no more than one-eighth of an inch in size and range from green or black to reddish or white. They are very plump insects and get that way as they suck sap from the plant, usually on the foliage or stems. The plant will gradually wilt as it is unable to stay firmly upright while the aphids drain its sap.

Aphids are easily dislodged with a blast of water, so a cleansing shower is a good way to remove many of these pests without any unnecessary chemicals. If the infestation is extreme, it may be necessary to wash the plant gently with an insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids. Neem oil spray can also be effective for controlling aphids on houseplants.

Scale

These insects have a hard, oval-shaped shell that gives them a tough, scale-like exterior as they line up on a plant’s stems in tight clusters, similar to barnacles on a boat’s hull. These pests suck sap from the plant, and then produce a sticky, honeydew residue that can coat the plant and lead to mildew or may attract additional pests.

Your first line of defense is to gently scrape scale bugs off a plant with your fingernail, taking care not to scratch or damage the already stressed plant. Dabbing the insects with swab soaked in rubbing alcohol or spraying with neem oil can also be effective.

Minimizing Houseplant Pests

No matter which pests may be a problem, it’s always best to avoid infestations altogether rather than try to control them after the insects have already made an appearance. To minimize the risk of bugs taking over your houseplants…

• Purchase new plants only from a reputable retailer, like Poor Boy’s Garden Center , that offers proper care to the plants and can offer support for any problems after purchase.
• Inspect new plants carefully before purchasing and avoid plants with signs of pests.
• Quarantine any new plant for at least a week to be sure it doesn’t have any unwanted guests, including outdoor summer plants that will overwinter as houseplants.
• Use high quality, well-drained potting soil for all houseplants, rather than garden soil that isn’t sterilized and can even harbor pests.
• Provide houseplants with optimum care so they are not stressed as stress can make them more susceptible to pest infestations.
• Sterilize all houseplant equipment regularly, including pots that will be reused, pruners and shears, and watering cans, to be sure no pests are carried between plants.
• Stay alert at all times for signs of possible insect infestations. The faster you are able to act, the easier it will be to control these unwanted guests.

It can be frustrating to find pests on your houseplants, but with careful monitoring and appropriate control measures, your plants will soon be pest-free.

Fresh cut greens – pine boughs, holly sprigs, mistletoe, etc. – are wonderful for winter and holiday décor, both indoors and out. Extend the life and enjoyment of your fresh greens by following these easy steps:

• SOAK – Immerse greens in cold water overnight or up to 24 hours. The needles will soak up moisture to stay plump and firm. A good location for accomplishing this task is in a utility sink or bath tub, but be sure the water won’t freeze while the greens are soaking. Use only fresh, plain water without any additives or chemicals.
• DRY – Allow greens to drip dry for an hour or so in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. This will remove excess water from the branch ends so they do not leak.
• SPRAY – If desired, spray Wilt-Pruf, an anti-transpirant, on greens when they are finished dripping. This will seal moisture into the needles extending the life of your greens. Do not use this on Princess Pine, and note that this product may change the color of blue-colored cut greens like Colorado Blue Spruce and Blue Juniper. Test the spray on an inconspicuous area first to be sure you don’t mind any changes.
• DRY – Allow the greens to dry thoroughly after spraying and before decorating and hanging or arranging. This will be sure there are no water spots on any of your bows, accent pieces or ornaments that are part of your fresh arrangements.
• COOL – Keep greens in as cool a location as possible, out of direct sunlight and away from any heat source, including heating vents, ceiling fans and air ducts. Moving arrangements of fresh greens onto a cool porch or into a garage each night can help extend their vibrancy.
• BUNDLE – Arrange your fresh greens in dense bundles and bunches, either as wreaths, vase arrangements or swags. As a group, they will help keep each other fresh with slightly higher humidity between each green.
• CLEAN – Keep fresh greens crisp and clean through the holiday season by dusting them lightly. Use only a clean, lint-free cloth without any sprays or chemicals. This will remove dust that may dim the arrangements, but chemicals could damage the greens or change their colors. Do not brush the greens so harshly that you may damage or dislodge their needles, foliage or berries.

With proper care, your fresh cut greens can be stunning holiday decorations for several days or weeks, bringing a touch of nature into your home even when the world is cased in ice and snow.

One of our sweetest holiday traditions is kissing under the mistletoe, but how much do we really know about this custom or, for that matter, the plant itself?

The Mistletoe Legend

American author Washington Irving discusses mistletoe and its uses in Christmas Eve, along with other holiday festivities during the Twelve Days of Christmas in the early nineteenth century. For kissing under the mistletoe, Irving describes…

“The mistletoe is still hung up in farm-houses and kitchens at Christmas, and the young men have the privilege of kissing the girls under it, plucking each time a berry from the bush. When the berries are all plucked the privilege ceases.”

Another part of mistletoe’s kissing mythology is part of a Norse legend. Frigg, the goddess of love, was so grateful when her son Baldur was raised from the dead (after being killed by an arrow of mistletoe wood), that she praised the plant and promised a kiss to all who passed beneath it.

Stealing a kiss under the mistletoe is believed to have originated in England among servant classes in the late 1700s, and it was considered bad luck for a young lady to refuse such a kiss.

While there are many ancient myths and legends from all over the world surrounding mistletoe, the traditions involving kissing are by far the most favored. Today, both fresh sprigs as well as artificial clusters and topiaries of mistletoe are available as holiday decorations, often mixed with holly or pine sprigs and accented with crystals or ribbons.

The Mistletoe Plant

American Mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) is one of 1,300 species of mistletoe worldwide but one of only two that are native to the United States. Our mistletoe is a semi-parasitic, shrubby plant with oval, evergreen leaves and long clusters of sticky white berries. This plant roots itself in trees and survives mostly off its host’s life support system. But, despite its parasitic tendencies, mistletoe has been a natural part of healthy forest ecosystems for millions of years, and can even promote biodiversity as other seeds stick among the mistletoe and sprout.

Mistletoe is poisonous to people, but the berries and leaves provide high-protein food for many animals. Many bird species rely on mistletoe for food throughout the winter and nesting material in the spring. Butterflies lay their eggs on the plants and use the nectar as food. Mistletoe is also an important pollen and nectar plant for bees.

Pick-up some mistletoe and have a happy holiday!

Winter marks a seasonal change. Our bodies seem to crave deeper, more tantalizing, richer tastes rather than light, bright, fruity flavors of summer. Harvesting vegetables in the late fall, and sometimes into the winter, presents us with bounty for slow, simple and savory cooking. All winter vegetables may be boiled, roasted, grilled, stewed, sautéed, steamed or eaten raw.

Which Vegetables Are Winter Vegetables?

Winter vegetables are generally considered those that are either harvested late in the season or have the capability of being kept for several weeks or months without losing their flavor, texture and nutritional value. Which of these will grace your table?

The cole, or cruciferous, vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips and kohlrabi rank highly for many nutrients including vitamin C, soluble fiber and other nutrients with anticancer properties. Interestingly, boiling seems to reduce the potency of these nutrients, but other cooking methods don’t.

Root crops, including beets and carrots, sustain life around the world. Beets provide folate, nitrates and manganese in dishes such as borscht and pickled beets. Carrots contain diverse vitamins including A, C, K and B6 and antioxidants from carotenoids. Interestingly, recent research suggests many people prefer the flavor of steamed carrots to boiled.

Fennel, with its anise flavor, jazzes up meals throughout the world but is a favorite in Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. It tops nutritional lists with its antioxidant benefits. Try some raw in salads and appetizers.

Celery, related to fennel, adds a distinctive crunch when used in salads as a raw ingredient or a stronger flavor to soups and stews. With a mild taste, celery is versatile in a wide range of dishes, including mashes, stuffings and roasts.

Potatoes and sweet potatoes, long associated with the typical American holiday meal, contain many healthful benefits. According to research, boiling or steaming sweet potato provides the most health benefits; the phytochemicals in them rival that of broccoli. Roasting or baking potatoes is a healthy way to enjoy them, provided you are sparing with the toppings.

Winter squashes, from acorn to pumpkins, also serve as healthy sources of carbohydrates. Because 90 percent of the calories are starch-related, people are surprised at recent studies proving the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and insulin-regulating effects of winter squash. Additionally, the roasted seeds make a delicious and healthful snack.

Winter Vegetable Recipes to Savor

Have you ever wondered how to roast vegetables? It’s easy! Just wash the vegetables, cut into 1″x1″ cubes, and place in mixing bowl. Drizzle over a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and mix to cover all pieces. Place as a single layer in a cookie or roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook at 375⁰ Fahrenheit for approximately 45 minutes or until the desired texture is reached. Jazz it up with cinnamon, garlic, curry, rosemary or any other favorite spice or seasoning mix.

Here are some other recipes to bring these wonderful winter vegetables to your table. Bon appétit!

Roasted Winter Squash Seed and Cheese Ball Appetizer

Step 1: Roast winter squash seeds by cutting the winter squash in half and removing the seeds and stringy “gunk.” Put into a bowl half filled with water and rub between your hands to separate the seeds from the strings. Rinse the seeds again and spread out on a cookie sheet. Use a hair dryer or place in 150⁰ Fahrenheit oven to dry. Stirring every 10 minutes reduces drying time and ensures even drying.

Step 2: When dry, place seeds in bowl and combine with choice of seasonings. Mix thoroughly. Return to cookie sheet. Place in 275⁰ Fahrenheit oven for 10-20 minutes. Watch closely to prevent burning. When cool, chop finely to coat cheese ball.

Seasoning ideas

1. Latino: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. chili powder, 1 tsp. oregano
2. Asian: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. ground ginger, 1 tsp. hot mustard, 1 tsp. honey
3. Holiday: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. nutmeg, 2 tsp. sugar
4. Use your imagination!

Step 3: Make cheese ball.

Ingredients:

2 pkg. (8 oz. each) softened Neufchatel cheese

1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (Low fat)

Directions:

Beat Neufchatel and cheddar in small bowl with mixer until well blended. Refrigerate 1 hour. Shape into ball. Press seasoned winter squash seeds onto cheese ball.

Serve with complimentary crackers, tortilla chips, pretzels or flatbread.

Winter Squash Casserole

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

2 Cups winter squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

3 Tbs. extra virgin olive or macadamia nut oil

1 tsp. orange juice

1 tsp. lemon juice

Directions:

Steam squash chunks, covered, for 7-8 minutes, until just tender

Mix remaining ingredients, pour over squash in bowl

Toss while still warm. Serve.

Other Ideas:

• Cook 1/2 C chopped onion with squash, or
• Add fresh herbs such as basil or rosemary to liquid dressing, or
• Sweeten with 1 tsp. cinnamon and 2 tsp. honey, or
• For Asian flavoring, add 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger, 2 tsp. soy sauce

Super Easy Grilled (or Baked) Cauliflower

1. Remove the leaves. Cut the head in two, core the stem. Place both on large piece of heavy-duty foil.
2. Melt 1/2 Cup butter with 2 tsp. garlic salt and 2 tsp. lemon pepper.
3. Drizzle half of butter mixture over each half and sprinkle each with 3 Tbs. parmesan cheese
4. Rejoin the two halves and drizzle remaining butter mixture on the outside.
5. Fold foil around, creating a ball.

Cook at 350⁰ Fahrenheit for approximately an hour or until soft. Delicious!

Was it a bumper crop this year? Do you have tasty fruits, vegetables and herbs overflowing your storage? Now that the harvest is in, the decision needs to be made as to what to do with the abundance.

Years ago, homes had root cellars to store winter squash and root vegetables such as onions, potatoes and carrots to keep them cool and dry for several weeks. As more homes refinish basements into living spaces and more urban gardeners expand their harvest, however, it may be difficult for gardeners to store their harvest this way. So, what can they do?

Here’s a quick little table to help:

• Storing: Only store mature and perfect vegetables. If there are soft spots or bruises, eat immediately or preserve. Leave several inches of stems on winter squash. It’s important to maintain temperatures between 32-40⁰ Fahrenheit with good air circulation and ventilation. To reduce spoilage, the humidity should be between 85-95 percent.

• Freezing: Freezing maintains nutrients, flavor and texture. Most vegetables require blanching (cutting into pieces, a boiling water bath [see times above], followed by immersion into very cold water) prior to putting into freezer bags or containers in the freezer. Maintain a temperature of 0⁰ Most vegetables will store well in the freezer for up to 12 weeks.

• Canning: Best method for vegetables with high water content such as fruits and tomatoes. Hot water baths or pressure cookers seal the contents in sterilized jars. Most vegetables are low acid foods and require using a pressure cooker. Use cleaned, fresh and tender vegetables. Follow all pressure cooker instructions carefully.

• Drying: No special equipment required. Most people use ovens or dehydrators. It’s important to have good air circulation and all vegetables are cleaned and not bruised. Blanching in a hot water bath increases quality and cleanliness. Adding 1/4 teaspoon of citric acid to each quart of water will reduce darkening and discoloration.

• Pickling: Used around the world to preserve foods, pickling also includes relishes and fermentation. Examples include Kim-chi, pickles, sauerkraut and chutneys. Follow all recipes carefully. Most use vinegar to stabilize acidity and prevent bacteria. Some recipes will suggest canning to preserve the product, others will recommend refrigerator or crock storage.

Have specific questions? The National Center for Home Food Preservation has many online publications to assist you.

Fall is an excellent time to repot many houseplants. Potted plants that have been growing outdoors during the summer have probably grown quite vigorously due to the high light levels and greater humidity. If the top growth of the plant has increased in size by 20 percent or more, it probably should be transplanted into a larger container so the roots can stretch and settle comfortably.

Before You Repot

Before repotting, check the plant and the soil carefully for insects.  Add systemic granules to the soil and spray the leaves with an insecticidal soap to remove any unwanted pests. If an insect infestation is particularly bad, it may be necessary to remove most of the plant’s soil and replace it with fresh potting soil. Avoid using soil from the garden, however, which will harbor insect larvae and eggs as well as weed seeds and other material you do not want in your houseplants.

Acclimating Plants

Bring your plants indoors well before any danger of frost for proper acclimation to the indoor environment. The change in light levels and humidity could shock more delicate plants, and they may wilt temporarily or drop leaves before they adjust to the new conditions. If possible, bring them in just a few minutes at a time for several days, gradually increasing their indoor time to several hours before keeping them indoors all the time. Flowering tropicals will also benefit from cutting back some of their foliage to avoid shock before being brought indoors.

To help houseplants overcome the transition from outdoors to indoors, position them in a bright, sunny area and consider adjusting indoor temperature and humidity controls to more closely mimic outdoor conditions. Make adjustments slowly and gradually, and the plants will adjust.

Time to Repot

Once your houseplants are adjusted to their indoor fall and winter environment, they can be safely repotted without adding to their stress. Repot the plants early in the day, and move them to a slightly larger pot. Avoid jumping several pot sizes, which could lead to excessive root growth while the foliage is neglected. Be sure to fertilize and water the plants appropriately to provide them proper nourishment as they settle into new pots. Do not expect luxuriant foliage growth right away, however, as it will take some time for the plants to begin growing again, especially in fall and winter when most houseplants are entering a dormant, slow growth period.

By repotting your houseplants in fall, you can help healthy, vigorously growing plants adjust to a new environment and continue their growth with ease in a new, larger, more comfortable pot.

Fresh vegetables don’t have to end as the days grow shorter – fall is a great time to plant an autumn garden to extend the growing season. Many vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower are of a higher quality when grown in the fall, while others, like kale, develop better flavor after a frost. Spinach, chard, kale, collards, mustard and rapeseed all grow rapidly and flourish at the end of the season, ideal for autumn gardening. Loose-leaf lettuces do well, too.

To prepare your bed, immediately pull out whatever plants have finished producing. Spade or till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, rake the area lightly and work in a light application of composted manure or 5-10-5 fertilizer to provide adequate nutrition for rapid-growing fall veggies.

Broadcast a mixture of seeds like mustard, kale and rapeseed, or combine seeds of several types of lettuce like curly leaf, red leaf and oak leaf to allow you to harvest your salad already mixed. It works best to plant greens in blocks or wide rows, because they’re easier to harvest and you’ll have fewer weeds. If you plant blocks each time a new space opens up, you’ll have staggered plantings that can produce over a long time.

Some autumn vegetable varieties will tolerate cold better than others. Read seed packets before you purchase them to determine what will be best in your area, but don’t be put off by such notations as chard’s taking 60 days to mature. The greens are good when they’re younger, too.

Water seeds after sowing and keep the ground evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing. Seedlings may also need to be sheltered from extreme heat. Protect them by shading them from the sun with Reemay fabric until they are established.

Although insects tend to be less bothersome in late fall, some vegetables in the cabbage family, including mustard, kale and collards, may attract cabbageworms. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) sprays for an organic method of control. As the plants begin to fill out, thin them enough to allow air to circulate and dry off moisture. This helps prevent insect problems too.

Harvest your fall vegetables as soon as the plants reach edible size. Even after the first frosts, you’ll be able to keep harvesting to enjoy the yield of your extended-season garden.

Top Fall Vegetables

• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Swiss Chard
• Collards
• Kale
• Lettuce, Head
• Lettuce, Leaf
• Spinach

Do you miss the vibrancy of your flowerbeds and the rich, lush colors of your landscape once winter sets in? With warm weather pots, window boxes and hanging baskets already in place, decorating the outside of your house this winter will be a cinch!

1. Use only containers that are winter safe. Porous pots, like terra cotta, are not a good choice as they tend to crack when they freeze. Better choices include cast iron or aluminum urns, fiberglass or foam containers and cocoa-lined wire hanging baskets and troughs. For a truly holiday look, consider containers that may have red-and-green coloration or other holiday hues, or look for whimsical holiday-themed designs.
2. Use the soil that is already in your containers. Remove just the tops from your previous plantings, allowing their roots to remain in the soil as an anchor for your winter arrangement. OASIS Floral foam is another good choice that works well for smaller outdoor arrangements like those in hanging baskets. You may also need some plant or gardening pins to help keep your arrangement in place and secure.
3. Begin by adding greens to your container (note: your greens will last longer if soaked in Wilt-Pruf for 24 hours before using). Cut branches to the desired length and remove all green needles from the portion that will be inserted into the soil. Create a dense base for your arrangement using either white pine or spruce. Consider allowing some boughs to trail over the edge of the arrangement for more visual interest, or mix up different types of greens for interesting texture.
4. Create a focal point for your arrangement with the addition of a few tall branches of curly willow, Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick, red twig dogwood or white painted birch. Position these taller elements near the back of the arrangement to allow more room for additional plants and decorative items. To add more magic to the arrangement, consider painting taller branches gold or silver.
5. To include additional color and texture, incorporate more winter-themed plants into the arrangement. Magnolia leaves, holly, incense cedar, winterberry, China berry, pepper berry, protea, eucalyptus or other decorative branches and berries are all top choices. Go for a lush, tiered look for the best effect.
6. To bring your arrangement to life add mini white or colored lights, desired ornaments and weather-proof ribbon. For a more whimsical look, consider garlands, candy canes, cranberry strings or even a fairy gingerbread house. Remove these when the holiday season ends and leave the arrangement intact until time for spring planting.
7. You might spruce up around the pot to bring even more notice to your arrangement. Consider a ribbon around the pot, or add light-up gift boxes or wrapped boxes around the pot to create a larger focus.

With just a few steps, the outdoor containers you enjoy in spring, summer and fall can continue to be lovely accents for holiday and winter decoration.

Although the blooms of summer are a distant memory and the splendor of fall is neatly raked into the compost pile, don’t think your yard has to be dreary from now until spring. Background planting, berries, bark and even blooms are the secrets of a colorful and interesting winter landscape.

Background Planting

Evergreens are the mainstay of the winter landscape. When the shade and flowering trees and shrubs of spring and summer have entered their winter sleep, it’s evergreens that take the stage. Spruce, cedar, pine, hemlock, arborvitae, yew and juniper – there are many beautiful varieties suitable for foundation or specimen planting, windbreaks, screens and groundcovers. Some change into their ‘winter wardrobe’ too: “Reingold” Arborvitae takes on a coppery hue, while junipers like “Bar Harbor” and “Prince of Wales” turn bronzy purple. Don’t forget broad-leaved evergreens for texture contrast, plus make use of evergreen perennials like Coral Bells (Heuchera), Thrift (Armeria), Creeping Phlox, Candytuft (Iberis) and varieties of Sedum for groundcover or edging. A few ornamental grasses such as Blue Fescue retain their color in winter and can create interesting and colorful tufts in a barren landscape. The foliage and flowers of others, like Miscanthus and Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), dry to a biscuit color and look particularly effective against a snowy backdrop.

Berries

Berry-bearing plants are a boon for birds and other wildlife, as well as being a decorative addition to the winter landscape. Try prickly Pyracantha, colorful cotoneaster and hardy hollies – a must for holiday decorating. Hollies come in many shapes and sizes for all sorts of landscaping situations. Plant a dwarf grower like “Blue Angel” (Ilex meserveae ‘Blue Angel’) as a foundation plant, a medium grower like “China Girl” (Ilex cornuta ‘China Girl’) as a screen or hedge and a tall grower like “Nellie Stevens” (Ilex) as a specimen. Hollies require a male pollinator for best berry production. Be sure and ask which pollinator you need for the variety you select.

Bark

The beautiful bark which many trees and shrubs exhibit can be seen at its best during winter, when leaves have fallen and surrounding plants are bare. Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum) is a delightful small specimen tree with reddish-brown bark that exfoliates in thin papery sheets. Consider white-barked European or Himalayan Birch or water-loving River Birch with its eye-catching grey-brown to cinnamon colored peeling bark. For attractive mottled trunks, plant Stewartia and Crepe Myrtle. The dazzling stems of Red and Yellow Twig Dogwood brighten as the winter progresses bringing cheer to dreary days. Twig Dogwoods look particularly stunning when planted in groupings in front of evergreen trees.

Blooms

Even in the middle of winter, there are a few plants that will surprise us with flowers. Perennial Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) has pretty white buttercup-like flowers; its cousin, Lenten Rose (H. orientalis) blooms a little later with flowers ranging from purplish green to white and pink. Both are shade-loving and grow slowly to a loose evergreen clump. Witch Hazel (Hammamelis mollis) is a large, multi-stemmed shrub with fragrant late winter blooms in yellow, orange or red. Other late winter bloomers, all of which are also fragrant, include Leatherleaf Mahonia (Mahonia bealii), Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and Sweet Box (Sarcoccoca).

Stop by early next season and talk to us about planning your landscape to include background plantings, berries, bark and blooms for winter interest. Your yard will never have the winter doldrums again!

All containerized plants that are considered hardy in your zone can spend the winter outdoors, but you do need to take a little special care to keep them safe and comfortable as temperatures drop. Despite their hardiness, winter is still a challenging season, but it is possible to keep your container plants healthy until the days grow longer and warmer again.

Options to Overwinter Your Container Plants

• In the late summer or fall, removed the plant from its container and plant it in the ground while the soil is still warm. Another method is to bury the pot, with the plant in it, in the garden and remove the pot following spring. Both of these methods will help insulate the root system, preventing it from freezing solid and killing the root system.
• Place containerized plants in an unheated garage but along a heated wall. This is an excellent method for very large pots or porous pots that tend to break apart from the constant cycle of freezing and thawing, and so would not be very hardy if buried. For extra root protection and insulation, wrap the pots in plastic bubble wrap or wrap an old comforter or quilt around the pots.
• Group pots together along the sunny side of your house or shed. If this area is windy, create a windscreen with stakes and burlap. Place bales of straw or hay around the perimeter of the grouping up against the pots to further protect plants from cold winds. Fill in areas between pots with mulch, shredded leaves, grass clippings or hay for insulation. Lay evergreen branches or place a layer of mulch on top of the pots for additional protection.
• Use a cold frame covered with plastic or Reemay fabric to help control temperatures and reduce light as well, helping plants stay dormant in winter. It will still be necessary to use mulch, shredded leaves or hay around and in-between pots for insulation. Rodent control, such as Havahart traps, may be necessary when using this method. Another option for rodent control is Repels All. Sold in granules and a ready to use spray (hand spray) or a hose spray, depending on your needs.

Watering Container Plants in Winter

Make sure that plants go into the winter with moist soil so that there is water available to plant roots. Check soil moisture occasionally, never allowing it to dry completely. It is also a very good idea to spray needled and broadleaf evergreens with an anti-desiccant. This acts as a protective coating for plant foliage and stems as it helps them retain moisture.

With just a little care and forethought, you can easily prepare containers for winter without risking the plants and arrangements you have so carefully cultivated.

What are your garden’s trouble spots? Do you need an evergreen hedge? A tall anchor plant at the back of a deep garden bed? How about an interesting groundcover? Perhaps your garden needs a medium-sized transition plant. Try a euonymus! This versatile plant does it all, and whatever your landscape needs, this family of plants probably includes your solution. Some are deciduous while others are evergreen, but all are easy to grow and adapt well to a variety of environments.

About Euonymus

With more than 175 varieties of Euonymus available, there is sure to be one to meet your landscaping needs and climate conditions. Evergreen types tend to prefer somewhat sheltered locations, while deciduous euonymus will thrive in full or part sun. Watering should be regular, with more frequent watering (1-2 times per week) in very dry conditions. Well-drained soil is best to prevent root-rot and while richer soil is ideal, euonymus can adapt to nearly any soil type. Pruning can help keep these shrubs compact and neat, and if left unchecked they may outgrow spaces and variegated leaves could revert to plain colors.

Euonymus Varieties in Autumn

In the fall, the burning bright colors of a deciduous euonymus are unmistakable and add rich autumn foliage to the landscape. The strawberry bush (E. americanus) burns bright yellow with scarlet red fruits with orange seeds. The spindle tree, (E. europaeus) has more red in its fall color and the berries are pink or red with white seeds. Probably one of the best known is the Winged Euonymus (E. alatus), often used as a deciduous screen, with unique “winged” twigs and bright red fall color. Choose from a number of different varieties with unique colors and varying mature heights.

The many members of E. japonicus provide solutions for evergreen hedges, edging plants and intermediate-sized shrubs. They range from 1-12′ tall. Some are green, while others have variegated yellow or silver leaf edges. Popular ‘Green Spire’ grows to 7′ tall but at only 1-2′ wide, it creates a narrow and easily maintained taller hedge ideal for screens and privacy. ‘Silver Princess’ grows only 3′ high and wide creates a beautiful silver-tinged border or is a great option for terraces or small bed areas.

For groundcovers, check out the prostrate varieties of E. fortunei such as ‘Coloratus’ (Purple-Leaf Winter Creeper) which turns dark purple in the fall or ‘Wolong Ghost’ with dark green leaves with white veins. There is even a dwarf groundcover, E. fortunei ‘Minimus’ which grows less than 6″ high!

Remember, many of these euonymus varieties add autumn beauty to your garden, so this is an excellent time to see them at their peak and choose which of these unique and stunning plants should be part of your landscape.

Looking to add interest to the fall and winter landscape? This year, plant ornamental cabbage and kale for bold textures and vibrant colors.

About Ornamental Cabbage & Kale

Unlike most other annuals and perennials, these two hardy plants improve in appearance after a frost or two, which bring out more intense and brilliant colors in their foliage – perfect as an autumn accent or centerpiece plant. Identified by a number of names including floral kale, decorative kale, ornamental-leaved kale, flowering kale and flowering cabbage, ornamental cabbage and kale are classified as Brassica oleracca (Acephala group). Offering unlimited use in the landscape, these plants have large rosettes of gray-green foliage richly variegated with cream, white, pink, rose, red and purple. Kale leaves are frilly edged and sometimes deeply lobed.

While typical ornamental kale and cabbage varieties are easy to find, you can also try more unusual options, including dwarf varieties as well as upright, taller hybrids that can even be used in cut arrangements.

Using These Attractive Plants

Popular in borders, grouped in planting drifts, or planted in containers for the deck or patio, ornamental cabbage and kale typically grows to 12-18” high and wide, depending on the cultivar. Plant these specimens at least 12” apart in an area with full sun that has moist, well-drained soil. Organically rich soil with proper compost or fertilization is best to provide adequate nutrition for these lush plants. Although they are able to withstand light frosts and snowfalls, ornamental cabbage and kale will typically not survive hard freezes and are best treated as showy annuals.

The best foliage color will occur if ornamental cabbage and kale is planted in early fall as temperatures are cooling, or you can sow seeds 6-10 weeks before the first anticipated frost date – just be sure the seeds have sun exposure in order to germinate properly. These plants are usually attractive in the garden until Thanksgiving or slightly later, or in mild climates they may even last until spring temperatures begin to rise. Hint – when the plants smell like cooked cabbage, it is time to pull them out!

While these plants are superficially similar to the familiar cabbage and kale vegetables popular in salads and other edible uses, it is important to note that ornamental varieties are cultivated for color and shape rather than taste. Keep them out of the kitchen and in the garden instead, and you won’t be sorry!

It’s not unusual for houseplants to become infested with different pests, but with conscientious care, even the most tenacious pests can be controlled. By acting quickly when pests are first noticed, you can completely remove the infestation and keep your houseplants healthy and thriving.

Top 5 Common Houseplant Pests and Controlling Them

Different plants may be susceptible to different types of pests depending on your home’s environmental conditions and the plants’ overall health. These pests, however, are the most widespread houseplant pests….

Fungus Gnats
These tiny, flying pests don’t do any harm to houseplants in their mature, adult form, but fungus gnat larvae live in houseplant soil and feed on organic material. This not only robs the plant of nutrition, but the larvae may nibble on the plant’s roots as well. While they don’t cause much overall damage to an otherwise healthy plant, fungus gnats can be very irritating when they form cloud-like flocks around a plant’s foliage.

Overwatering in rich soil encourages fungus gnats, and they can be notoriously difficult to eradicate. Reducing watering so the top 1-2 inches of soil can dry out is the first step, but it is often best to completely repot an infested plant. The roots should be rinsed carefully to remove any lingering larvae, and if the same pot will be reused, it must be sterilized first. Use well-draining soil or water the plant from the bottom to make the soil less attractive to fungus gnats. You may also mix diatomaceous earth into the soil to deter these pests, add additional perlite to the soil to increase drainage, use a fine gravel top dressing, or apply Bt var. israelensis (Bti or H-14 strain) to organically kill fungus gnat larvae.

Mealybugs
These sap-sucking insects are no more than a half-inch long and have a white or light gray fluffy appearance. They are typically seen along the stems of houseplants, especially in the joints where foliage sprouts. As they suck the plant’s sap, the leaves wither and wilt. Yellowing leaves can also be another sign of a mealybug infestation, particularly if leaves are yellowing throughout the plant rather than just older bottom foliage.

When a houseplant is heavily infested with mealybugs, the fastest way to control the pests is to prune away infected foliage and discard of it carefully. If the infestation is light, however, the bugs can be deterred with a Neem oil spray or rubbing alcohol. Apply the alcohol directly to the pests with a cotton ball or swab to kill them.

Spider Mites
These pests can be very destructive to all houseplants and can be challenging to get rid of. The mites themselves are so tiny that they may not be noticeable even with a heavier infestation, but their webs on the undersides of foliage or stretching between stems will be easier to see. Leaves that show yellow stippling may also indicate a spider mite infestation.

Spider mites thrive in dry conditions, so keeping houseplants’ humidity high is a good way to deter them. Running a humidifier, frequent misting, grouping pots together, and sitting pots on water filled pebble tray are all helpful solutions. When the bugs are present, neem oil spray should be used weekly to remove them and keep them from returning. Alternatively, light cleaning with insecticidal soap is also an effective way to control spider mites.

Aphids
While better known for their outdoor infestations, aphids can also be a problem on indoor houseplants. They are tiny insects, no more than one-eighth of an inch in size and range from green or black to reddish or white. They are very plump insects and get that way as they suck sap from the plant, usually on the foliage or stems. The plant will gradually wilt as it is unable to stay firmly upright while the aphids drain its sap.

Aphids are easily dislodged with a blast of water, so a cleansing shower is a good way to remove many of these pests without any unnecessary chemicals. If the infestation is extreme, it may be necessary to wash the plant gently with an insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids. Neem oil spray can also be effective for controlling aphids on houseplants.

Scale
These insects have a hard, oval-shaped shell that gives them a tough, scale-like exterior as they line up on a plant’s stems in tight clusters, similar to barnacles on a boat’s hull. These pests suck sap from the plant, and then produce a sticky, honeydew residue that can coat the plant and lead to mildew or may attract additional pests.

Your first line of defense is to gently scrape scale bugs off a plant with your fingernail, taking care not to scratch or damage the already stressed plant. Dabbing the insects with swab soaked in rubbing alcohol or spraying with neem oil can also be effective.

Minimizing Houseplant Pests

No matter which pests may be a problem, it’s always best to avoid infestations altogether rather than try to control them after the insects have already made an appearance. To minimize the risk of bugs taking over your houseplants…

• Purchase new plants only from a reputable retailer, like Poor Boy’s Garden Center, that offers proper care to the plants and can offer support for any problems after purchase.
• Inspect new plants carefully before purchasing and avoid plants with signs of pests.
• Quarantine any new plant for at least a week to be sure it doesn’t have any unwanted guests, including outdoor summer plants that will overwinter as houseplants.
• Use high quality, well-drained potting soil for all houseplants, rather than garden soil that isn’t sterilized and can even harbor pests.
• Provide houseplants with optimum care so they are not stressed as stress can make them more susceptible to pest infestations.
• Sterilize all houseplant equipment regularly, including pots that will be reused, pruners and shears, and watering cans, to be sure no pests are carried between plants.
• Stay alert at all times for signs of possible insect infestations. The faster you are able to act, the easier it will be to control these unwanted guests.

It can be frustrating to find pests on your houseplants, but with careful monitoring and appropriate control measures, your plants will soon be pest-free.

Mulch can add a protective layer to any fall garden, flowerbeds, or shrubs, but is it best for your landscape? Understanding the pros and cons of fall mulching can help you better prepare all your plants for the changing season.

Benefits of Fall Mulching

There’s no denying that when done properly, mulching in fall can provide enormous benefits to the landscape. The biggest pros of fall mulching include:

• Insulating the soil.
  Fall mulching preserves heat that will keep microbes, earthworms, and other life active and thriving in the soil longer to improve the soil condition. The insulation mulch provides will also help moderate temperature swings that can damage tender roots, especially those of newly planted plant material.
• Saving time with spring chores.
  Spring is a hectic season in the garden, but if mulching is already done in the fall, it doesn’t need to be redone in the spring and there will be more time to spend with other planting and gardening tasks when the weather warms.
• Easier climate for working.
  The milder temperatures of autumn make it more enjoyable to spend time outdoors with the heavy labor of spreading mulch. This is especially true if you will be mulching multiple flowerbeds, tree rings, borders, and other spaces throughout the landscape.
• Simpler to spread.
  If you mulch in spring, you may need to be delicately working around emerging sprouts and blooming bulbs. In fall, however, the work is less delicate after beds have already been cleaned out, and you can spread mulch much more quickly and efficiently.
• Weed suppression.
  Weeds don’t stop growing when summer ends, and just like spring mulching, spreading mulch in fall will help minimize weeds. This will make it easier to keep weeds under control when spring arrives again, and growth is renewed.
• Preventing soil erosion.
  Soils on sloped beds can quickly erode in autumn and winter weather as rain and snow batter the slopes. A good layer of mulch will protect the soil and keep it in place throughout the season, so it is ready to work again in the spring.
• Nourishing the soil.
  Organic mulches that are spread in autumn will have several months to settle and begin decaying. This will introduce more nutrients into the top layer of soil, so it is richer and healthier for spring planting.
• Tidy Appearance
  A fresh layer of mulch will always make the landscape and garden look well-tended.

Problems With Fall Mulching

While fall mulching can be very beneficial to the landscape, it may not be the best choice for your gardens. Potential cons of fall mulching include:

• Stopping self-sowers.
  Any herbs or flowers that would normally self-sow as seeds ripen will be inhibited by a layer of autumn mulch, and the yield for new growth in the spring will be significantly reduced. The thicker the mulch, the fewer seeds will germinate.
• Time constraints of shorter days.
  While the autumn climate may be perfect for big mulching jobs, shorter days and the risk of early snows or freezes can make it difficult to complete the undertaking. If the mulching is started too late in the season, it may not get finished before winter begins.
• Loss of winter interest landscaping.
  One benefit of fall mulching is that it is easier to spread the mulch over already pruned perennial beds. This same step, however, requires pruning perennial stems back which removes that winter interest from the landscape as it takes away stems, berries, and seeds that winter wildlife may have needed.
• Attracting unwanted pests.
  A deep layer of fresh mulch can be very attractive to unwelcomed fall and winter guests, including rodents and slugs that will burrow into the mulch and make themselves at home until spring. This problem can be minimized by taking care not to use too much mulch in autumn.
• Depriving roots of oxygen.
  While fall mulch will help moderate soil temperatures to protect delicate roots, a thick layer may also stifle airflow into the soil and deprive roots of essential oxygen. At the same time, excess moisture that accumulates under a thick mulch layer could lead to problems as well. Be sure to keep your fall mulching to no more than 2 inches deep from plant stem to the dripline.
• Fading before spring.
  Once fall mulch is laid, it will begin decomposing and could lose its sharp color and freshness long before spring arrives. This can be fixed simply by turning the mulch in the spring to refresh the layer even as new bulbs and shoots are starting to pop up to greet the season.

Fall Mulching Tips

Every gardener must decide when to mulch, and if you do want to take advantage of the benefits of fall mulching, doing so carefully can help prevent many of the cons. First, adjust the mulch depth to match the requirements of your local climate and plant needs – a layer 2-4 inches deep is typically adequate. Apply fall mulch after the first hard freeze when perennials can be cut back easily but take care not to pile it against tree trunks or shrub bases where it may invite gnawing pests or induce bark rot.

Mulching can be a very productive fall chore for flowerbeds, garden spaces, borders, and other parts of the landscape. It has to potential to save you time and energy and help keep your property looking its very best not only in autumn, but through the winter and into spring once again.

A compost pile should be part of every gardener’s yard, since it adds so many benefits for recycling and providing organic material in the garden. There are times, however, when it can be tricky to keep a compost pile in peak condition and breaking down material most efficiently. If you encounter any of these common problems, you can easily correct them and keep your compost pile at its best.

• Pile is Too Dry
  Without adequate moisture, beneficial microorganisms cease to function and decomposition stops, turning a compost pile into a clumpy mess that does not decay into usable organic material. Keep the pile moist at all times, but not overly wet. A dampness like a squeezed sponge is ideal. It may be necessary to use a hose to water your pile occasionally, or a tarp or piece of plastic over the top of the pile can help keep moisture in the pile instead of evaporating.

• Foul Odor
  A stinky compost pile is no gardener’s friend, and over-watering the pile will compact the material. When air space is decreased, the pile becomes anaerobic, resulting in an unpleasant odor. Turn the pile frequently to increase aeration and add larger pieces of dry, porous, carbon-rich material such as wood chips or straw to absorb excess water and improve air circulation.

• Pile is Cool
  Check all the items required for a hot, quickly-decomposing pile: carbon, nitrogen, air and water. Correct any deficiencies. Another issue may be that a pile that is too small will have difficulty insulating itself. Increase the size of your compost pile by adding more material so it can generate sufficient heat from decomposition to keep itself warm.

• Pests in the Pile
  While insects and worms are welcome helpers in a compost pile, a poor pile may also be attracting mice, rats, squirrels, raccoons and other wildlife. This usually means that the wrong material was used for composting. Never add meat, fish, bones, dairy products or oily food to the compost pile, all of which can have strong odors that will attract unwanted wildlife. Similarly, no human, cat or dog manure should be added to the pile. Avoid adding weed plants or diseased plants as well, since those weed seeds or disease spores could be transmitted to your garden or landscape when the compost is spread.

• Poor C/N Ratio
  When planning the optimum conditions for compost decomposition, the standard recommendation is 3-to-1; three parts carbon to one part nitrogen. Carbon-based material is brown and nitrogen-based material is usually, but not always, green. Chopping or shredding additions to the compost pile will speed up the decomposition and help keep the pile balanced.

  The best materials to add to your compost pile include…

  Brown Material (Carbon-Based)
  – Dried, dead Leaves
  – Shredded paper, including newspaper
  – Wood ash
  – Sawdust
  – Eggshells
  – Chipped brush and wood chips
  – Straw and twigs

  Green Material (Nitrogen)
  – Grass clippings and sod scraps
  – Vegetable and fruit peels, scraps and rinds
  – Disease and insect-free plant material, such as clippings and prunings
  – Horse, cow, chicken and rabbit manure (herbivores)
  – Coffee grounds and used coffee filters
  – Used tea bags
  – Used potting soil

No matter what issues your compost pile may be having, problems are easy to correct and you can quickly adjust your pile to be productive and efficient. Before you know it, you’ll have plenty of rich, nutritious compost to nurture your garden and landscape all year long.

Fall is an excellent time to repot many houseplants. Potted plants that have been growing outdoors during the summer have probably grown quite vigorously due to the high light levels and greater humidity. If the top growth of the plant has increased in size by 20 percent or more, it probably should be transplanted into a larger container so the roots can stretch and settle comfortably.

Before You Repot

Before repotting, check the plant and the soil carefully for insects.  Add systemic granules to the soil and spray the leaves with an insecticidal soap to remove any unwanted pests. If an insect infestation is particularly bad, it may be necessary to remove most of the plant’s soil and replace it with fresh potting soil. Avoid using soil from the garden, however, which will harbor insect larvae and eggs as well as weed seeds and other material you do not want in your houseplants.

Acclimating Plants

Bring your plants indoors well before any danger of frost for proper acclimation to the indoor environment. The change in light levels and humidity could shock more delicate plants, and they may wilt temporarily or drop leaves before they adjust to the new conditions. If possible, bring them in just a few minutes at a time for several days, gradually increasing their indoor time to several hours before keeping them indoors all the time. Flowering tropicals will also benefit from cutting back some of their foliage to avoid shock before being brought indoors.

To help houseplants overcome the transition from outdoors to indoors, position them in a bright, sunny area and consider adjusting indoor temperature and humidity controls to more closely mimic outdoor conditions. Make adjustments slowly and gradually, and the plants will adjust.

Time to Repot

Once your houseplants are adjusted to their indoor fall and winter environment, they can be safely repotted without adding to their stress. Repot the plants early in the day, and move them to a slightly larger pot. Avoid jumping several pot sizes, which could lead to excessive root growth while the foliage is neglected. Be sure to fertilize and water the plants appropriately to provide them proper nourishment as they settle into new pots. Do not expect luxuriant foliage growth right away, however, as it will take some time for the plants to begin growing again, especially in fall and winter when most houseplants are entering a dormant, slow growth period.

By repotting your houseplants in fall, you can help healthy, vigorously growing plants adjust to a new environment and continue their growth with ease in a new, larger, more comfortable pot.

Fall is the best time of the year to overseed your existing lawn or establish a new lawn. If your lawn is a bit thin, has bare patches or needs good care, now is the time to take care of it so it can become thoroughly established before warm temperatures arrive in spring.

Overseeding A Weak Lawn

A weak lawn may have thin or scraggly patches, seem overrun with weeds or have bare patches that are difficult to keep green and lush. Overseeding can help eliminate these problem areas and create a more consistent, luxurious lawn.

1. Spray broadleaf weeds with a selective herbicide and wait 2 weeks for the weeds to disappear. Several treatments may be necessary if the yard is thick with weeds.
2. Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A garden extension service can help determine pH levels, or home test kits are available.
3. Mow shorter than normal and rake clean to remove unnecessary debris that may keep seeds from reaching the soil.
4. Core aerate if you have compacted soil or heavy thatch. Remove the cores and dispose of them properly to keep the soil light and airy for seeding.
5. Apply starter fertilizer and lime if determined to be needed by the pH test, or choose a grass type that will thrive in your soil’s conditions.
6. Dethatch your lawn if thatch is thicker than ½ inch. This can be done with heavy raking or a special dethatching rake may be necessary in extreme cases.
7. Overseed with the proper seed. If core aerating, lightly topdress with topsoil or humus.
8. If needed, cover the freshly seeded area with netting or hay to discourage birds or other wildlife from consuming the seed before it grows.
9. Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deep root growth.
10. Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer.

Seeding A New Lawn

If you have no existing lawn or the entire ground is overrun with nothing but weeds, it may be best to start from scratch and create the lawn of your dreams.

1. Kill existing vegetation with nonselective herbicide. If you want to preserve nearby trees or shrubs, take steps to protect that vegetation from the treatment.
2. Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A testing kit can provide a good pH estimate, or a gardening center or garden extension service can provide a more precise evaluation.
3. Prepare soil by breaking up the surface with a rake or spade using a crisscross pattern. All large lumps should be broken up, and any large rocks should be removed.
4. Broadcast starter fertilizer, lime and gypsum as determined by the pH test. This will provide a nutrition boost for fresh seeds.
5. Spread topsoil or humus to a ½ inch depth for appropriate planting.
6. Rototill to a depth of 4 inches and grade smooth. This will mix all the top layers together for uniform soil and nutrition, ensuring even turf growth.
7. Sow proper seed and mulch lightly with salt hay to control erosion and conserve moisture.
8. Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deeper root growth to resist droughts and repel weeds.
9. Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer to provide nutrition throughout the season.

Which Seed?

Not every lawn will thrive with the same type of grass seed. Allow our staff to help you select the seed that best suits your needs, soil type and planting conditions. Apply at the recommended rate and incorporate into the top ¼” of soil. Do not bury the seed or it may not germinate evenly.

No matter what the condition of your lawn, fall is the best time to take steps to help it rejuvenate so you have an amazing lawn to enjoy in spring.

Extend the beauty of your garden with vivid autumn-blooming perennials. When you think of fall-blooming plants, don’t stop at mums – there are many perennials that can add color to your yard at this time of year.

Top Autumn Bloomers

While there are different autumn-blooming perennials for different growing zones and climate conditions, some of the most popular and widespread options include…

• Fall Dai
• The prickly-headed coneflowers belong to the genus Echinacea, in the same family as black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia). They are tough plants with coarse foliage, but their abundant bloom makes up for the rough edges.
• Autumn Sedums
  Bold-foliaged sedums provide texture as well as color in a sunny place. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ is the most well known. It has coppery-pink flower heads. Sedums ‘Brilliant’ and Stardust’, with soft pink and white flowers respectively, are also attractive. For a totally different color combination plant sedum ‘Vera Jameson’. It has gray-purple foliage with rose pink blooms and looks stunning when planted with Blue Fescue, Artemesia Silver Mound and other silver-foliaged plants. As an added bonus, all the sedums are attractive to butterflies.
• Autumn Asters
  Asters are another fall bloomer that butterflies love. These perennials like sun and moist, well-drained soil. There are many colorful aster varieties in shades of pink, purple, blue and white. Some favorites include tall-growing aster ‘Alma Potschke’ with bright pink flowers, blue-flowered aster ‘Professor Kippenburg’ and low-growing aster ‘Purple Dome’ with its deep purple blooms.
• Autumn Goldenrod
  Sunny yellow goldenrod (Solidago) is another bright addition to the fall garden. Wrongly blamed as the cause of fall allergy problems, goldenrod has rightly taken its place in the fall garden. It looks particularly effective combined with blue flowering plumbago, purple asters and ornamental grasses.

Fall Bloomers for Shade Gardens

Even shade gardeners can enjoy late blooming perennials. Tall growing Japanese Anemones are a stately addition to the perennial garden. Bloom colors range from pure white to various shades of pink, and flowers can be single, semi-double or double blooms. Anemones grow well in light to moderate shade and spread quickly to form large clumps, filling in space vacated by spent summer plants. Turtlehead (Chelone) is another fast spreader for shade. Rose pink flowers cover the tops of the plant from early September to October. For a deeply shaded location, try Toad Lily (Tricyrtis), which has clusters of beautiful cream flowers, spotted with maroon along its upright stems. For light shade, plant Blue Cardinal Flower (Lobelia siphilitica), whose intense blue spikes can be admired from mid-August until frost.

No matter what type of garden you have, the end of summer does not need to mean the end of colorful blooms. Instead, just opt for amazing fall bloomers and enjoy brilliant color even longer!

We’re certain you’ve heard it numerous times: fall is the best time to buy your Japanese maple. Have you come into the garden center to pick one? Did the varieties overwhelm you? Let us make it easier for you by explaining Japanese maple differences. Then, when you come in, you’ll know exactly what you want.

The species Japanese maple, Acer palmatum, moderately grows to a 20′ by 20′ multi-trunked tree. The leaves have 5-9 finely cut lobes giving them a more delicate look than other maples. Red spring leaves turn to green in the summer and blaze with yellow, orange and red in the fall. All do best with protection from drying winds and hot overhead afternoon sun. During their centuries of use in gardens around the world, gardeners have discovered and propagated those selections with unusual growth habits and bark patterns, as well as leaf color and shape. With hundreds of Japanese maple varieties available at garden centers, we feel a little simplification is in order.

• Leaf Shape
  The variation Dissectum or Laceleaf Japanese Maple has leaves are deeply cut and finely lobed giving a lace cutout look. These varieties generally grow best in shady locations as the leaves easily burn or scorch. The leaves of non-Dissectum varieties are much less lacy. They resemble the leaves of native maples but are smaller and more deeply cut.

• Leaf Color
  The leaf color of different Japanese maples also varies. Many have red spring growth changing to green in the summer. However, some retain the red through the growing season. Some varieties have variegated leaves with white, cream, gold or pink. Variegated leaves burn easily in the sun but can revert to all green in too much shade. Green leaves tolerate more sun than red. Autumn is when Japanese maples really put on a show with a riot of blazing colors.

• Tree Form
  Non-Dissectum varieties grow more quickly into upright forms. Some varieties remain less than 10′ tall but others can grow to 25′ tall by 20′ wide. Laceleaf maples slowly develop a weeping form approximately 8-10′ tall and 8-12′ wide. However, ‘Seiryu’ is an exception, growing into an upright form.

Now that you have identified a suitable planting location and the type of Japanese maple you prefer, come see us and check out what we have on hand. Autumn colors are blazing now so this is a great time to make your selection.