Author Archives: GCSDev

Tooling Around in the Garden: Selecting and Caring for Garden Tools

Let’s face it – purchasing a new garden tool is usually not the first thing on your mind when you visit your friendly neighborhood garden center. Most of us tend to gravitate toward the latest and greatest herbaceous eye-candy without considering whether we have all the equipment necessary to prepare and care for it. The right tools, however, are critical to keep all your plants in top condition, and selecting quality garden tools is no simple matter. You want one that meets your needs, is available when needed, is easy on you, is long lasting and is not too expensive or too hard to maintain.

Choosing a New Tool

With so many tools on the market, choosing one that meets your needs can be a daunting task. First consider what type of work you will be doing, and what tools are required to accomplish your goal. Choosing the right tool for the job will make the work easier and more efficient. If you’re not sure, ask – our employees will be happy to assist your selection.

When you find a tool you are interested in, before you buy it, try it! Basic tools in new designs are available to the consumer every year. Those that are ergonomically designed, to align with the natural mechanics of our bodies, are meant to lessen the stress on muscles and joints as we garden. So pick up the tool and see how it feels in your hands. Make sure the weight and size are well suited to your strength and frame. Does it feel comfortable as you simulate the way it will be used? If it feels awkward, you will not be able to use it properly and may be tempted to neglect your garden chores instead.

Caring for New Tools

When you find a tool that meets your needs and is comfortable, you will want to have it around for a long time. Plan to purchase the highest quality tools that your budget will allow. If you purchase tools simply because they are the least expensive, chances are they will not last, and you will eventually spend more money to replace them.

Proper care and storage will add to the longevity of your garden tools. Hose off tools to remove soil and chemicals after every use. Allow tools to dry thoroughly before storing. For hardened soil, use a wire brush. Occasionally cleaning metal surfaces with oil will help to keep tools lubricated and prevent rust. Keep all moving parts oiled as well to enhance performance. Oil wooden handles at least twice a year with linseed oil to help prevent drying and splintering. For ease of use, keep tools with cutting surfaces sharp by filing them as often as needed. Check frequently and tighten any loose screws and bolts. Store all garden tools in a dry place with tool surfaces off the ground.

Every garden tool you own is important to the health, beauty and productivity of your garden and landscape. Be sure you choose the best tools and maintain them well to make the most of all your gardening.


Attracting Birds to Your Garden

One of the benefits of a garden is the wildlife it attracts, and birds are some of the most popular garden wildlife. Most birds are voracious eaters that are glad to keep the insect population down, and may eat 500-1,000 insects in one afternoon. This makes them ideal for natural (and free!) pest control. Anything you can do to attract birds will make your garden healthier and you’ll be entertained by their feeding antics along the way.

Fortunately, it is easy to attract birds to your garden if you meet their needs for food, shelter, water and overall habitat variety.

Food

While birds will certainly eat insects and may munch on seeds, berries and fruits in the garden, consider placing a variety of bird feeders in your garden to entice even more birds to visit. Platform feeders attract ground birds, hanging feeders are for perching birds and suet holders attract insect-eating birds. Suet is especially important during the winter as this helps birds maintain their body temperature by adding fat to their diet. Hang plastic mesh bags of suet or pinecones dipped in suet (or peanut butter) from the limbs of trees.

For your other feathered guests, white millet and black oil sunflower seeds will attract the most common seed-eating birds and can be sprinkled directly on the ground or added to feeders. Add other species-specific seed like Nyjer (thistle) seed (to attract goldfinches, pine siskins and purple finches) or peanuts (to attract chickadees, jays and tufted titmice) to your buffet. Various gourmet seed mixes are also available like Lyric Supreme, Delight, Chickadee, Woodpecker and Finch Mixes, each of which is blended with specific birds in mind and includes the foods those birds like best.

Shelter and Nesting Sites

Birds feel more secure if they have shelter to protect themselves from the weather and other predators. Plant native trees and shrubs birds will easily recognize as suitable shelter. If your landscape is young and doesn’t include much shelter for birds, don’t worry. Consider building a brush pile or adding a loose woodpile to the yard and birds will happily take advantage of it.

You may also want to add nesting boxes or bird houses and other materials for birds to raise their young. This should be done in late winter or early spring just as birds are beginning to look for nesting sites. Clean houses or boxes after each nesting season.

Water

One of the most important things to include in your bird-friendly garden is water. This is especially true during the winter months. Use a bird bath heater to keep water from freezing. Ideal water sources are 2-3 inches deep and 3 feet off the ground to keep visiting birds safer from prowling predators. Moving water is a magnet for most birds and will attract them from great distances for a drink or bath. A mister, dripper or circulating pump can be added to a bird bath or other water feature during most of the year, but take care to winterize the equipment properly so it does not freeze and break during the coldest months.

Habitat Variety

Because birds live in many different habitats, the variety of plant material you can offer in your backyard will determine how many birds are attracted to your garden. Consider native plants, plants with berries, fruits, sap and nectar for year-round food sources as well as nesting materials. Plan your landscape in tiers and flowing, connected beds so birds can move around easily, and include a variety of both deciduous and evergreen plantings so birds can find the habitat useful year-round.

We carry a complete line of bird feeders, houses, seed mixes and suets as well as garden accents; all the accessories and plants you will need to start attracting birds to your backyard. Stop by today!

Early Spring-Blooming Perennials

When winter is long and dreary, it can seem like your precious flowerbeds will never burst into life again. Early spring flowers, however, are precious proof that winter is on its way out, and some can even bloom in bright, cheerful colors right through lingering snow. Yet we often forget these beauties, overcome with the bold, familiar bulb displays of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more. This is unfortunate, because many of these perennials have a subtle charm that complements bulbs and shrubs which bloom in early spring, and they add even more variety, texture and color to your landscape.

Perennials for Early Spring Blooms

When choosing the best plants to be a stunning early spring display, the amount of sun or shade the location receives is the most critical factor for the plants’ success and the gorgeousness of their growth.

For a sunny location, opt for…

  • Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
  • English Daisy (Bellis perennis)
  • Mountain Pinks (Phlox subulata)
  • Rockcress (Aubrieta)
  • Candytuft (Iberis)
  • Wall Cress (Arabis)

For part to full summer shade locations…

  • Pasqueflower (Anemone pulsatilla)
  • Bleeding Heart (Dicentra)
  • Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia)
  • Columbine (Aquilegia)
  • Dead Nettle (Lamium)
  • Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis)
  • Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera)

Planting Perennials for Early Spring Blooms

When you choose which early spring bloomers to add to your landscape, consider the plants’ overall mature size, soil requirements and both watering and fertilizing needs to be sure they can reach their full potential. If you choose to plant them in fall, take extra care to protect tender roots and give the plants time to thoroughly establish themselves before the first hard freeze. Good compost and mulching around the new plants can help protect and nourish them through the first winter, and they’ll be ready to burst into colorful bloom in just a few months.

Many of these plants are good mid-level bloomers ideal for flowerbeds. They can fill in around other small accent trees and shrubs and provide a lush background for other blooms or mounding plants in front of the bed. They can fill in around trees for a more naturalized look, and can be great in borders. Just be sure to plant at least a few where you’ll have a good view of their beauty from indoors and you’ll be able to enjoy the beauty of their early blooms even if it’s a bit too cold to be outdoors in your garden!

Early Spring Bloomer

Feng Shui in the Garden

Feng Shui is the ancient Chinese philosophy that believes in attracting and guiding the flow of cosmic energy to influence your health, wealth and happiness. If you are already familiar with Feng Shui, you should know that it is assumed by many that the same fundamental principles that apply to your home also apply to your garden, maybe even more so since the energy in your home is brought in from the outside..

Feng Shui means ‘wind’ and ‘water.’ According to Chinese tradition, everything in the world contains ch’i, the cosmic life force. Ch’i means to flow freely like wind and water, but it is alleged that its movement can be blocked or trapped. This, it is believed, can cause disharmony or misfortune in your life. The movement of ch’i is thought to be influenced by several things such as colors, shapes and sound. The purpose of Feng Shui is to ensure that ch’i is flowing smoothly and gently without being allowed to stagnate or move too quickly. This harmony in your environment is understood to create harmony in your life.

Bringing Harmony to Your Garden

Feng Shui starts with basic gardening maintenance. Ch’i is believed to stagnate in areas where junk accumulates. Clean up your patio or deck and screen your garbage cans from view. Throw away any broken pots, planters or tools. Good cultural practices are also considered important in the flow of ch’i. Mow your lawn, pull up weeds, edge your beds and remove dead plants. Prune any broken or damaged limbs, stake plants and take steps to control insects and disease.

Ch’i requires smooth curves to flow. It is funneled by straight lines but impeded by sharp angles. It does not need to be costly or time consuming to remedy these types of structural problems. A straight walkway can be softened with the addition of curved beds on either side. You may also try planting perennials that mound or spill onto a walkway to break up straight lines. To help ch’i flow gently around corners, consider the addition of a tree, shrub or climbing vine. A curved bench or fountain is another option.

Bright colors, especially red, are used in Feng Shui to attract ch’i. Poor Feng Shui, it is believed, is remedied by placing the five elements recognized by the ancient Chinese – wood, fire, earth, water and metal – in their appropriate direction to beneficially affect the movement of ch’i.

Why not try some of the elemental remedies below in their appropriate directional orientations? They may assist with the flow of ch’i in your garden and perhaps you will reap the benefits of good fortune Feng Shui reportedly imparts.

Feng Shui Remedies



Importance of Circulation in an Outdoor Space

Your landscape is a great space to enjoy, but if you can’t get around that space, you won’t enjoy your outdoor living nearly as much as you could. From patios and decks to gardens, flowerbeds, sheds, play areas and more, circulation is critical to make the most of your landscape and enjoy every inch you have so thoughtfully cultivated.

Where Are You Going?

Before you start planning pathways and circulation space in your landscape, it is important to recognize where you are going and what pathways you will use the most. This is your landscape’s hierarchy of circulation, and depends on what features you have and how you use them. The locations of access points, such as doors or gates, and how they relate to the biggest features of your yard – a pool, deck, patio, hot tub, gazebo, garden, play set, etc. – will help determine how pathways should flow through your yard. The widest, most welcoming pathways should be between the most frequently used features and access points to make moving around your outdoor space safer and more convenient. Lesser used features, such as a private meditation niche or a shed that stores seasonal tools, may have smaller, narrower paths, or may not even need circulation pathways at all.

While you are considering the circulation between major spaces in your outdoor living area, don’t forget smaller circulation concerns as well. For example, a comfortable seating area with a fire pit or dining table won’t be so comfortable if guests aren’t able to move around furniture or other obstacles safely and easily. Also be sure that pathways aren’t crossing undesirable areas, such as passing closely by private windows or leading guests around less aesthetic features, such as utility boxes, air conditioners or trash cans.

How Will You Get There?

Once you have plotted where the pathways belong in your outdoor space, you need to decide what types of pathways will meet your needs. Factors to consider include…

  • Width – The path should be proportional to the yard and allow for easy access to the space
  • Material – Pavers, gravel, mulch, timbers and natural stone are all popular pathway options
  • Layout – Paths can have gentle curves to wind and flow or may be more straightforward
  • Architecture – Design pathways to coordinate with the house style and landscape design
  • Elevation – If steps are necessary, be sure they are safe and secure for all types of visitors
  • Views – Envision pathway routes to be sure they are as pleasing to the eye as the feet

There are many different ways to plan proper circulation in, around and through an outdoor space, and careful consideration of these different factors will ensure you enjoy every step along the paths you create.

Make Paths a Pleasure

Circulation is not just a necessity in your outdoor space, it can be a pleasurable part of your landscape, especially when you consider the journey as well as the destination. To make the most of your circulation paths and help each one enhance your landscape…

  • Enter Elegantly – Use a gate or archway to mark the entrance to your paths and welcome guests to step into your landscape. Natural arches or structures can both be fun options.
  • Add Borders – A bordered path has a finished, elegant appeal. Opt for contrasting textures, angled pavers or even fun plants to frame your pathways.
  • Provide Niches – An unexpected niche or node along the path can be a treasure to find. Benches, fountains, specimen plants or other accents are all beautiful options.
  • Light the Way – Lighting is essential for safe pathways, particularly where there may be stairs or uneven terrain, but fun lights such as lanterns or rope lights also add personal flair to the path.
  • Consider Customization – Add fun, customized surprises along pathways, such as quirky stepping stones, children’s handprint rocks or even initials and other personalization.

From the first step to the last, how you move around your landscape is essential to be sure you can access the spaces you want and enjoy getting from one to another. Our experts can help you plan the best circulation for all your outdoor living spaces – contact us today to take your first step to a landscape you’ll love to move around in!






Design a Raised Landscape That Works

Raised beds have been around for years, but have become increasingly popular recently because they make the landscape orderly, organized and easy to maintain. You can readily reach over and pull weeds as they appear, plant more comfortably and enjoy the new tiered depth and dimension of your lawn and garden. Raised beds are also particularly helpful if you are working with heavy soils that drain poorly, or if you have mobility limits that make getting down to ground level more difficult.

If you’re just getting started with raised beds, it’s easy to successfully bring your gardening to a higher level:

  1. Define the bed lines with a rope or hose. Consider the overall bed size, as well as the size and shape of your building material. You may want to position the bed along a fence or in a corner for more dimension and support.
  2. Dig a 4-6” deep edge along the perimeter. Don’t worry if this line isn’t as neat as you would like, because it will be more refined once you construct the bed frame.
  3. Remove existing sod/grass from the bed. You can compost the removed material, or use it to patch other spots in your lawn or turf as needed.
  4. Place concrete blocks, wall stone or other edging along this new bed line to build your bed frame. Wooden railroad ties or planks can also be used, but be aware that they may warp or decay in time. In general, stone or other sturdy materials are preferred.
  5. Build up your flower bed approximately 6-8” with top soil, mixing in peat moss for better drainage and compost, leaf mulch, cow manure or similar organic material to adequately nourish the soil.
  6. Compact your soil mixture as you build up each layer. This will help keep the bed from settling excessively as you plant and water.
  7. Increase the visual impact of your flower bed or gardening area by planting at different levels. Arrange shorter, lower growing plants in front, followed by medium and then tall plants in the back. You might consider some “spiller” plants along the sides and front if desired. Choose plants carefully to match the size of the bed, avoiding plants that will quickly outgrow the smaller, more confined space.
  8. Apply a 2-3” layer of mulch or stone and thoroughly soak your new landscape feature. Sprinkle Miracle Gro Weed Preventer or a similar product over the area to provide an invisible layer of protection against germinating weeds.

Before you know it, your new raised bed will be thriving and will quickly become the centerpiece of your landscaping. Then it’s time to construct another!

design-raised

Winter Houseplant Care

With programmable thermostats, double-paned windows, and other tricks, we are able to keep our homes at the same climatic comfort level year-round. Indoor houseplants, however, can be sensitive to subtle seasonal changes. Even in a balanced home environment, proper winter houseplant care is essential to help plants thrive through this challenging season.

Winter Changes in Home Climates

While the winter changes in our homes are more subtle than the harsh freezes and deep snowfall outdoors, our home environments actually change more than we may realize. Depending on the conditions we like to maintain and the climate outdoors, winter changes may include…

  • Fewer hours of daylight, and the daylight that does exist is less intense than during the summer.
  • Lower temperatures often accompanied by chilly drafts from windows and doors.
  • Lower humidity levels, particularly if central heat has been running, which can dry out air.

These conditions are less than ideal for many houseplants, particularly tropical species that are adapted to longer hours of sunlight, higher temperatures, and richer humidity. Fortunately, with some extra care, winter houseplants can adapt and thrive even during the harshest winter months.

Adjusting Winter Houseplant Care

There are several steps you can take to adjust your houseplant care during the winter. Easy and effective steps include…

  • Reducing Watering – Many houseplants go dormant in the winter, and while their growth is slowed, they require much less water. Overwatering in winter can lead to root rot and other plant damage, so avoid watering houseplants excessively in the winter months. When you do water your houseplants, use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the plants’ roots.
  • Reducing Feeding – Similar to reducing the water a plant receives while dormant, reducing fertilizer is a good step to care for winter houseplants. Plants do not need as much nutrition when their growth is slowed and reducing plant food until spring will keep the plants from developing leggy or spindly growth.
  • Improving Humidity – Using a humidifier is a great way to provide better humidity for winter houseplants. Other options include clustering plants together so they can share the humidity from their own respiration, as well as positioning plants in a bathroom where humidity is naturally higher. Misting frequently can also help improve humidity, as can using a pebble tray underneath the plants, so long as the pots are not resting in water.
  • Relocating Plants – Moving winter houseplants to south or west-facing windows where they will get more light can help them thrive in winter. Take care that the plants’ foliage does not brush window glass, however, or the plants may get chilled or frosted.
  • Supplementing Light – In darker rooms or when dreary winter days seem endless, adding supplemental lights near houseplants can help them flourish. Choose the appropriate bulb size and strength for your plants’ needs. Other steps to increase natural light include opening draperies and washing windows so more light reaches each plant.
  • Dusting Plants – Houseplants easily acquire a layer of dust and debris without outdoor breezes to keep them clean. Use a soft, damp cloth to carefully wipe each plant’s foliage to remove that dusty layer or give plants a gentle shower to water and clean them at the same time. Clean plants will be able to absorb light more effectively.
  • Rotating Plants – Plants will stretch and turn their foliage in an effort to reach more sunlight, particularly in winter. To minimize this stretching and help keep plants growing straight and upright, rotate them every few days. This is easy to do for larger plants on casters or mobile plant stands.
  • Watching for Pests – Even in winter, pests can infest houseplants. Be diligent about watching for spider mites, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, and other common houseplant pests, and use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray to control the pests as soon as they appear, keeping the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Houseplants have many benefits, particularly in winter when an urban jungle can help mitigate Seasonal Affective Disorder and alleviate the depression and anxiety that often accompanies dreary winter days. By following proper winter houseplant care, you can keep all your plants happy and thriving even during more challenging months, just when you need their inspiration and a connection to nature the most.

Creating a Low-Maintenance Landscape

Looking for a landscape design that delivers curb appeal without demanding your weekends? It might be time to discover the benefits of decorative stone! Stone, rock, and gravel offer practical, polished solutions that minimize upkeep, maximize style, and provide significant long-term savings. If you’re eager to take yard maintenance off your to-do list without sacrificing an attractive outdoor space, you’re in the right place! Poor Boy’s Garden Center is here to guide you through everything you need to know about creating a stunning, low-maintenance landscape with rock.

Why Choose Rock?

Decorative rock landscapes go far beyond simple aesthetics. When you invest in a rock-based design, you’re choosing function, longevity, and a welcome break from repetitive yard work. Here are some core reasons why more property owners are switching to rock:

Long-Lasting Impact

Unlike wood mulch, which decomposes and demands frequent replenishing, decorative stone persists for five years, a decade, or even longer. Rock holds its color, resists breakdown, and keeps your yard looking consistent year after year. This translates into more time and money saved on outdoor upkeep.

Excellent Weed Suppression

When properly installed over quality landscape fabric, decorative rock forms a powerful physical barrier that blocks most weeds from emerging. This simple step reduces your need for herbicides and slashes your time spent on hands-and-knees weeding.

Minimal Watering

While organic mulch can help retain moisture, it often requires maintenance and doesn’t reduce the need for watering as much as you might think. Rock needs no watering at all. When paired with drought-tolerant plants, such as succulents, or xeriscaping, a rock landscape becomes a water-efficient solution offering both immediate and long-term environmental benefits.

No Decomposition or Pest Risk

Mulch is organic, which means it breaks down over time and can invite termites, ants, and pests. Rock, on the other hand, never decomposes, attracts fewer pests, and stays put even during heavy storms or wind. This results in a cleaner, more predictable landscape.

Fire Resistant & Durable

Decorative stone adds a layer of fire resistance to your property, which is especially critical in wildfire-prone regions. Rocks don’t burn, and they serve as a natural buffer near outbuildings, fences, or homes.

Where to Use Rock?

At Poor Boy’s Garden Center, we often hear customers ask, “Where exactly should I use decorative rock?” The answer is almost anywhere! Rock is one of the most versatile materials in landscaping, offering beauty and durability in every corner of your outdoor space.

Long-Term Garden Beds

Start by replacing mulch in your permanent garden beds. Decorative stone stays in place longer, resists fading, and won’t break down like wood chips, making it a significant upgrade around shrubs, trees, and perennials.

Patios, Paths, & Seating Areas

Rock is also ideal around patios, along walkways, and under outdoor seating or play areas where grass struggles to grow. It provides a smart, low-maintenance solution that maintains high curb appeal. It also performs beautifully in high-traffic zones, such as front entrances, signage beds, or along driveways, especially where you want a tidy, professional look without constant upkeep.

Types of Landscape Rock

With such variety in shape, color, and texture, landscape rock is more than just functional—it’s a stunning design element. Some popular options include:

  • River Rock: Smooth, rounded stones available in multiple colors and sizes. Perfect for naturalistic designs, dry creek beds, and defining garden borders.
  • Autumn Red Stone: A durable, weather-resistant and versatile stone. Can be used as a mulch alternative to retain moisture and prevent weeds. Its a rich blend of red and earth tones.
  • Pea Gravel: Small pebbles that provide comfort underfoot. Excellent for patios, playgrounds, or paths.
  • Marble Chips: Commonly used in garden beds, walkways and patios. Prized for their ability to create clean, modern lines and striking contrasts when paired accordingly.
  • Wallstone: A durable, long lasting, and aesthetically pleasing natural material that is characterized by its high resistance to elements and fire, and its ability to reduce erosion.

Selecting the right rock can enhance both function and visual appeal, so consider the colors and textures that harmonize with your home’s exterior or business brand.

Maintenance Tips

A landscape built with stone offers impressive reductions in maintenance, but a little effort goes a long way toward keeping it pristine. Consider these proven tips:

  • Install High Quality Landscape Fabric: Always start with a professional-grade fabric beneath the stone. This keeps weeds at bay, allows rainwater through, and prevents rocks from mixing with the soil below.
  • Refresh the Surface Layer Occasionally: Over time, tracks and settling may cause heavily trafficked areas to thin out. Adding a fresh top layer every few years will restore uniformity and color vibrancy.
  • Use Proper Edging for Containment: Edge beds with steel, concrete, or stone borders to prevent rock migration into lawns or other planting areas.
  • Keep Debris Under Control: Use a blower or light rake to clear leaves and organic matter in fall and spring.
  • Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: For added security against weeds, treat beds with pre-emergent product once or twice a year, or as needed.
  • Rinse Rocks: If dust or mud builds up, rinse with a garden hose or use a pressure washer on the lowest setting to restore their natural look as needed.

How to Select the Right Materials

How does decorative stone compare with organic mulch or a turf-heavy yard? Here’s a breakdown:

Material Maintenance Level Best Applications Longevity
Rock Very Low Permanent Beds 5 – 10+ years
Mulch Moderate Flower Beds
Annual Gardens
1 – 2 years
Turf High Play Areas
Lawns
Dog Runs
Ongoing

If your goals include lasting impact, hassle-free ownership, or improved property value, rock is typically the standout choice.

Stunning Results with Minimal Effort

A well-designed rock landscape offers lasting beauty with minimal work. The right mix of stones can add dynamic texture, highlight architectural features, and give your property a cohesive, professional appearance. By making smart choices up front, you can achieve eye-catching curb appeal and enjoy true low-maintenance living for years to come.

Poor Boy’s Garden Center has an assortment of landscape stone, from classic river rock to dramatic granite chips. Our staff is ready to help you calculate quantities, select complementary rock types. Whether you’re revamping a single bed or tackling a multi-acre project, we’re here to help.

Selecting the Right Plant for the Right Place

More often than not, our landscape renovation wish lists include the desire for a picturesque, thriving, low-maintenance outdoor space to enjoy year-round for many years to come. Creating a flourishing landscape, however, isn’t simply about picking pretty plants. It’s about understanding your garden’s own unique environmental conditions and matching plant selection to them. This concept, known as “right plant, right place,” is a foundational principle in horticulture that ensures healthier plants, reduced maintenance, more sustainable gardening practices, and, therefore, greater garden longevity and homeowner happiness!

Why Choosing the Right Plant Matters

  • Healthier Plants:When plants are placed in environments suited to their needs, they grow healthier and stronger and are better able to resist pests and diseases.
  • Reduced Maintenance:Plants that thrive in their location require less intervention from the gardener. This translates to less work and more time to enjoy your garden.
  • Resource Efficiency:Using plants adapted to your local conditions means less water and fewer resources are needed, promoting sustainable gardening.
  • Enhanced Aesthetics:A well-planned and planted landscape will not only perform well but also look lush and beautiful. Planting in the correct environment enables landscape plants to grow to their full potential in size and bloom capacity.
  • Environmental Benefits:Native plants and those well-suited to the conditions in which they are planted support biodiversity, attract pollinators, and contribute to a balanced ecosystem.

How to Select the Right Plant for the Right Place

Assess Sunlight Exposure

Determine how much sunlight each part of your garden receives throughout the day and match plant selections to these conditions.

  • Full Sun– Direct sunlight for at least 6 to 8 hours daily. It is ideal for sun-loving plants like vegetables, roses, and most flowering perennials.
  • Partial Sun4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, usually in the morning or afternoon. Plants labeled as “partial sun” prefer more light rather than less.
  • Partial Shade4 to 6 hours of sunlight, but these plants benefit from protection from the intense afternoon sun. It is best for plants that thrive in morning light and dappled conditions.
  • Dappled (Mottled) Shade– Sunlight filters through tree branches or structures, creating a shifting pattern of light and shade throughout the day. Common in woodland gardens.
  • Light Shade– Indirect sunlight for most of the day, with occasional brief periods of direct sun. It is found in areas near open structures or under high tree canopies.
  • Full ShadeLess than 4 hours of direct sun, typically in the early morning or late afternoon, with the rest of the day in indirect or reflected light.
  • Deep Shade (Dense Shade)Little to no direct sunlight, often due to dense tree cover, walls, or structures blocking light.

Understand Soil Conditions

The Mid-Atlantic region has a diverse range of soil. Here are the primary soil types found in this:

  • Clay Soil– Heavy and dense clay soil holds water well but can become compacted, making drainage a challenge. It tends to be nutrient-rich but often needs amendments like compost or sand to improve structure and aeration.
  • Sandy Soil– Light and well-draining, sandy soil warms up quickly in spring but dries out just as fast. It’s great for plants that need good drainage but often requires organic matter like compost or peat moss to help retain moisture and nutrients.
  • Silty Soil – Smooth and slippery when wet, silty soil holds moisture better than sandy soil and contains more nutrients. It’s great for gardening but can become compacted over time, so adding organic matter helps maintain its structure.
  • Loamy Soil– The ideal garden soil! Loam is a balanced mix of clay, sand, and silt, providing good drainage, moisture retention, and nutrients. This type of soil supports a wide variety of plants and is found in many well-maintained gardens.
  • Rocky or Stony Soil– This type of soil can make digging a challenge. It drains well but often lacks organic matter, so adding compost and topsoil helps improve its texture and fertility.
  • Peaty Soil– Dark, rich, and high in organic matter, peaty soil is found in wetland areas. It holds a lot of moisture, which can be beneficial, but may need drainage improvements for most garden plants.
  • Chalky Soil– Found in some limestone-heavy areas, chalky soil tends to be alkaline and drains well. It can limit the growth of acid-loving plants.

Soil pH Level

Soil pH is crucial when selecting garden plants because it affects nutrient availability and plant health. Some plants thrive in acidic soil, while others prefer neutral or alkaline conditions. If the pH is too high or too low, essential nutrients may become unavailable, leading to poor plant growth. Testing your soil pH is vital to growing healthy plants.

Here’s a breakdown of soil pH levels:

  • Acidic Soil
    Range: 4.5-6.5
    Acidic soils are often found in regions with high rainfall, as rain can leach out calcium and other alkaline minerals. These soils can be rich in organic matter but may lack nutrients like calcium and magnesium.
  • Neutral Soil
    Range: 6.5-7.5
    Neutral soil is ideal for most garden plants, as nutrients remain readily available. Many vegetable gardens and ornamental plants thrive in neutral soil.
  • Alkaline Soil
    Range: 7.5-8.5
    Alkaline soils, found in areas with low rainfall or limestone-rich soil, can lead to nutrient deficiencies, especially iron, which causes leaves to turn yellow (chlorosis).

Consider Climate and Hardiness Zones

Use the USDA Hardiness Zone map to determine which plants are suitable for your region’s temperature range. Choose plants that can withstand your area’s seasonal extremes, whether it’s harsh winters or scorching summers.

Evaluate Moisture Levels

Some plants thrive in consistently moist environments, while others prefer dry, drought-like conditions. Specifically consider:

  • Boggy or Wet Areas
  • Drought-Prone Areas

Size and Growth Habits

Understand the mature size and growth habits of plants to avoid overcrowding and maintenance issues. Plant trees and shrubs where they have room to grow without interfering with structures or other plants.

Examples of Right Plant, Right Place

Eastern US HARDINESS ZONES 5 – 9

  • Sunny, Dry Spots:
    • Plants:Lavender, Sedum, Yarrow, Russian Sage
    • Why:These plants thrive in full sun and well-drained soils.
  • Shady, Moist Areas:
    • Plants:Hostas, Astilbe, Ferns, Japanese Forest Grass
    • Why:These plants love the cool, damp environment provided by shade.
  • Acidic Soils:
    • Plants:Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Blueberries, Camellias
    • Why:These species prefer lower pH levels and will flourish in acidic conditions.
  • Clay Soils:
    • Plants:Daylilies, Black-Eyed Susans, Switchgrass
    • Why:These plants tolerate heavy, compacted soils and can handle less-than-ideal drainage.
  • Wetlands or Water Features:
    • Plants:Cattails, Iris, Cardinal Flower, Marsh Marigold
    • Why:These moisture-loving plants thrive in saturated conditions.

Landscape design and renovation are both an art and a science. Understanding your garden’s specific conditions will help in choosing plants well-suited to the existing environment. If you need assistance selecting plants for your situation, Poor Boy’s Garden Center is at your service. Our plant knowledge and selection are outstanding. We can help you match the right plant to the right place, enabling you to significantly reduce maintenance, conserve resources, and promote a healthier, more vibrant landscape that can be enjoyed year-round.

Right Plant, Right Place

Right Plant, Right Place

Right Plant, Right Place

Hellebore Black Death Disease

Hellebores are cherished for their early blooming flowers and ability to thrive in shady garden spots. However, these beautiful plants can fall victim to a serious condition known as Hellebore Black Death Disease.

Hellebore Black Death is a viral disease named for the dark streaks and spots it causes on infected plants’ leaves, stems, and flowers. These symptoms can severely affect the appearance and health of hellebores, leading to reduced vigor and, ultimately, plant death.

Symptoms

  • Dark Streaks and Spots: One of the hallmark symptoms is the appearance of black streaks or spots on the foliage, stems, and flowers. These streaks can sometimes resemble ink smudges or soot deposits.
  • Distorted Growth: Infected plants often exhibit distorted or stunted growth, with leaves becoming misshapen or curled.
  • Leaf Necrosis: Leaves may develop areas of necrosis (dead tissue), leading to a decline in overall plant health.
  • Stunted Flowering: Flowers may be fewer in number and smaller in size, sometimes displaying black streaks similar to those on the leaves.

Species Affected

Hellebore Black Death can affect a range of hellebore species, including but not limited to:

  • Lenten Rose (H. orientalis)
    Hardiness zones 4 to 9. Known for its diverse flower colors and patterns, the Lenten Rose is one of the most popular and widely grown hellebores. It blooms in late winter to early spring.
  • Christmas Rose (H. niger)
    Hardiness zones 3 to 8. This species is named for its early blooming period around Christmas in mild climates. It features white flowers that can age to a pinkish hue.
  • Stinking Hellebore (H. foetidus)
    Hardiness zones 5 to 9. Despite its common name, this hellebore is appreciated for its distinctive lime-green flowers and attractive foliage. It blooms in late winter to early spring.
  • Hybrid Hellebores (H. x hybridus)
    Hardiness zones 4 to 9. These hybrids, often derived from Helleborus orientalis and other species, are prized for their wide range of flower colors, shapes, and patterns. They typically bloom in late winter to early spring.

Prevention Strategies

Preventing Hellebore Black Death requires diligent garden hygiene and cultural practices. Here are some effective strategies:

  1. Purchase Disease-Free Plants. Always buy hellebores from a reputable garden center, such as Poor Boy’s Garden Center, that is conscientious about offering disease-free plants.
  2. Before planting, carefully inspect new plants, especially those received from a questionable source, for any signs of disease and continue to monitor the plants for symptoms.
  3. Remain diligent in regularly disinfecting gardening tools to prevent the virus’s spread. A solution of 10% bleach or 70% alcohol can be used for this purpose.
  4. Most importantly, maintain plant health. Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Ensure your hellebores are well-watered, mulched, and fertilized appropriately.

Hellebore Care

Keeping hellebores healthy by providing proper care will go a long way in preventing Black Death.

General Care Tips

  • Light
    Hellebores prefer partial to full shade but can tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates.
  • Soil
    Hellebores thrive in well-drained, humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH.
  • Water
    Although they are considered drought tolerant once established, consistent moisture is beneficial, especially during their growing season; however, waterlogged conditions should be avoided.
  • Mulch
    Applying mulch can help retain soil moisture and provide nutrients as it decomposes.
  • Feed
    Fertilize hellebore with a balanced fertilizer listed for perennial plants every spring as new growth appears; also, at this time, apply a fresh layer of compost atop the soil around the base of the plant.

By selecting hellebore species suited to your USDA hardiness zone and providing proper care, these useful, beautiful, and resilient plants can grace your shade garden for many years.

Aphids, The Main Culprits

Even with perfect care, hellebores can still succumb to Black Death, and aphids are the main culprits in transmitting this disease. These tiny insects can be found on the undersides of leaves, stems, and flower buds. They reproduce rapidly, making it easy for them to quickly infest a plant and spread the virus.

To protect your hellebores from Black Death Disease, managing and controlling aphid populations is crucial. Frequently inspect hellebores for signs of aphid infestation. If there is aphid pressure affecting your hellebore, here are some strategies to regain control:

Biological Control

  • Natural Predators
    Encourage natural predators such as ladybugs (ladybird beetles), lacewings, and parasitic wasps, which feed on aphids.
  • Companion Planting
    There are many companion plants that repel aphids. Unfortunately, hellebores are shade-loving plants, and most companion plants listed for aphids require full sun. Planting aphid-repelling plants like chives, dill, cilantro, and mint near hellebores can help deter aphids yet grow slower and smaller in the shade.

Chemical Control

  • Insecticidal Soaps
    When used properly, these are effective against aphids and have minimal impact on beneficial insects.
  • Horticultural Oils
    These oils can suffocate aphids and should be applied according to label instructions to avoid harming the plants.
  • Systemic Insecticides
    Systemic insecticides can be used for severe infestations. These chemicals are absorbed by the plant and target aphids as they feed. Use these with caution and follow label recommendations to minimize environmental impact.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

Adopting an integrated pest management approach can provide a comprehensive strategy for controlling aphids and reducing the spread of Hellebore Black Death. This approach combines cultural, biological, and chemical methods to manage pests effectively and sustainably.

  1. Monitoring
    Regularly monitor hellebores for aphid activity and signs of viral infection.
  2. Identification
    Correctly identify aphid species to determine the most effective control measures.
  3. Thresholds
    Establish action thresholds to decide when control measures are necessary.
  4. Control
    Implement a combination of control methods, starting with the least invasive options.

Currently, there is no cure for Hellebore Black Death once a plant is infected. The virus can persist in the plant and soil, making eradication challenging. Therefore, the focus should be on prevention and early removal of infected plants. Infected plants should be dug up carefully to avoid spreading the virus through the soil. Dispose of these plants by burning or placing them in sealed bags for disposal rather than composting. In areas where infected plants have been removed, soil solarization can help reduce viral particles in the soil. This involves covering the soil with clear plastic sheeting for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year to heat the soil and kill pathogens.

By effectively managing aphid populations, providing the correct cultural conditions, and practicing good garden hygiene, you can significantly reduce the risk of Hellebore Black Death and keep your hellebores healthy and thriving.

Hellebore Black Death is a serious and damaging disease with no current cure. However, its impact can be minimized with vigilant garden management and preventive practices. By ensuring the purchase of disease-free plants, providing the correct cultural conditions, practicing good sanitation, keeping aphid populations under control, and promptly removing infected plants to avoid the spread, gardeners can help protect their hellebores from this devastating disorder.

Hellebore Black Death Disease

Hellebore Black Death Disease

Hellebore Black Death Disease

Low Light Houseplants

Plants brighten up any room, help clean the air and bring a bit of nature inside, but indoor spaces rarely have the same levels of bright, natural light many plants enjoy in their native habitats. Without adequate light, a plant’s foliage may be dull or turn yellow or brown, growth will be slow and flowers may fail to bloom. Choosing low light houseplants is an ideal solution for any indoor space, and there are many beautiful plants that can thrive in a dim environment.

20 Best Houseplants for Low Light

There are many reasons to opt for low light houseplants. Some rooms, such as bedrooms and bathrooms, generally have lower than average light levels. Some homeowners use window shades, blinds or curtains for temperature control, which reduces the light available for indoor plants. Even bright rooms may have dim corners or shadowed spaces where light isn’t as intense. The exposure of any window also affects the sunlight it brings indoors, with north and west windows generally having lower light than south and east windows. Changing seasons also changes how much sunlight comes through any window, with less light available to indoor plants in fall and winter. Fortunately, there are many outstanding houseplants that can grow well in lower light conditions. While the best plants for your home will also vary based on humidity conditions and the care you can provide, houseplants that don’t mind lower light include:

  • Begonia (Begonia)
  • Bromeliads (Aechmea)
  • Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
  • Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
  • Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans)
  • Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
  • Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
  • Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena)
  • Maindenhair Fern (Adiantum)
  • Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
  • Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
  • Peperomia (Peperomia)
  • Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
  • Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
  • Prayer Plant (Calathea)
  • Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica)
  • Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
  • Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)
  • Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum)
  • ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

These are just a few of the most widespread, popular indoor plants that can do well with lower light levels. Check at your local nursery or garden center for additional varieties that are adapted to your region’s climate, especially during the winter months when houseplants are much more widely available.

Caring for Low Light Houseplants

It is important to note that whatever type of houseplant you choose, a designation as “low light” does not mean the plant can thrive in darkness. All plants need some light, but low light plants can still thrive in indirect or filtered light rather than several hours of bright sunlight each day. To give your low light plant the very best indoor habitat, you will also need…

  • A proper pot or other container.
    The pot will need to be the right size for the plant and its anticipated growth, without being too big or too small. Adequate drainage is also essential to prevent root rot and other care difficulties.
  • Suitable soil or potting mix.
    Garden soil has too many contaminants to be good for houseplants, but choose a soil with good nutrition for the type of plant it will nurture. Add coir, peat or other potting material if necessary to adjust the soil composition.
  • Proper watering.
    Inadequate water or overwatering can both be deadly for houseplants. Know what water your plant needs and adjust the watering schedule based on the plant’s size and seasonal needs throughout the year. Watering gauges or automatic watering tools can help you be sure you aren’t drowning or drying out your houseplants.
  • Regular feeding.
    Because houseplants rely on the same soil and can’t stretch their roots out to seek extra nutrition, regular fertilizing is essential. Choose the proper fertilizer for the plant type and feed gently rather than risk burning delicate roots with overfeeding. Slow-release fertilizers formulated for indoor plants are one of the best options.
  • Increased humidity.
    Indoor air is often much drier than the air outside, and houseplants can dry out more quickly without the proper humidity. Adding a humidifier in a room with houseplants, grouping plants together, misting regularly and providing a humidity tray are all ways to help.
  • Occasional dusting.
    With no regular breezes to blow away debris, houseplants can become dull and dingy without being dusted, and dust can clog their pores. Use a soft, clean cloth to gently wipe the foliage, or give plants an occasional shower to rinse away unwanted dust.

Every home can be made brighter with houseplants, even in darker rooms where there wouldn’t seem to be enough light. By choosing the right low light houseplants and caring for them appropriately, even a shadowy corner of your home can be a restful bit of nature.

Kokedama: Easy How-To Instructions

Are you a gardener with a minimalist vibe? Well then, kokedama will give you all the right feels!

What is Kokedama?

Kokedama, loosely translated as “ball of moss,” has become a popular trend in recent years, and for good reason. This Japanese art form eliminates planting pot use by wrapping moss around the root ball to create a beautifully minimalist plant display. If you’re interested in adding some greenery to your home and are looking for a space-saving option, then kokedama is for you.

One reason for kokedama’s recent surge in popularity is its practicality. Unlike traditional potted plants, kokedama is versatile and can be either hung in the home or placed in a saucer or bowl atop a table, shelf, mantle, windowsill, or other surface. Hanging as a display option is perfect for those with limited space. Additionally, kokedama is an enjoyable, easy, and unique way to create a stunning display that can last for years with just a little bit of maintenance. Also, it is an excellent winter gardening project that is fun for the whole family.

Materials

Before you start your kokedama, you’ll want to gather your materials, and it’s important to choose the right ones.

  • Plants
    Most small houseplants will do. We recommend African violet, anthurium, begonia, cyclamen, dracaena, ferns, peperomia, philodendron, pilea, and pothos as great beginner plants. Ease of care is important when selecting your plant, but more importantly, consider where you have the room to display your kokedama. You will want your chosen plant to be displayed where its light, temperature, and humidity needs are met.
  • Moss
    Select sheet moss, either fresh or dried.
  • Soil
    Any good quality potting soil will do. Potting soil with a bit of compost for nutrition and vermiculite for aeration is an extra good choice.
  • String
    It is best to avoid using jute or cotton string. These are attractive with a natural look but break down rather quickly compared to waxed string or fishing line.
  • Incidentals
    Scissors are the only tool necessary to cut the moss and string.

How To Construct

Once you have your materials, it’s time to get kokedama construction.

  1. Premoisten the soil just enough so that it maintains its shape when it is formed into a ball.
  2. Gently remove the selected plant from its pot, shake off excess soil, and mold the moist potting soil ball around the plant roots.
  3. Lay an adequate-sized piece of sheet moss flat and place the soil ball in the middle.
  4. Shroud the soil ball in moss, trimming away any extra.
  5. While holding the moss in place, tie a string loop around the soil ball.
  6. Continue to wrap the string around the ball, tugging as you go to keep it taunt until the moss is secured to the ball. Tie off the line and cut away the excess.
  7. Add a tripod of long strings, as long as you like, and evenly spaced around the ball. Tie them to the line that is wrapped around the moss ball.
  8. Gather the three strings at the top and balance the kodedama so it hangs correctly. You may eliminate this and the following steps if you choose to display it in a saucer or bowl.
  9. Fold the three strings down about three inches and knot them to create a hanger.
  10. Hang your kodedama and enjoy!

After Care

Familiarizing yourself with your chosen kokedama plant will assist you greatly in caring for it correctly. Depending on the type of plant you choose, you’ll want to make sure that all its needs are met.

  • Water
    Water as needed. Check every few days or so by sticking a finger through the moss to assess dryness. Water using a bowl, soak the ball thoroughly, and squeeze out all the excess water before rehanging.
  • Light
    Provide adequate light for your selected plant and position accordingly.
  • Humidity
    Humidity is necessary for all plants, but some more than others. Be sure to have a spray bottle filled with fresh water nearby. Mist your kokedama frequently, especially in the winter when the air indoors is particularly dry.
  • Feed
    Fertilize your kokedama during the growing season with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. Use at a quarter strength in the soaking water. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended instructions for frequency.
  • Groom
    Groom your kokedama as necessary, snipping off any browning bit and keeping vining plants in bounds.

In conclusion, kokedama is an easy and trendy way to bring some greenery into your life. With a little time and a few basic supplies, you can create beautiful, pot-less, hanging plant displays that will impress your friends and family.

Note: Succulents may be used for kokedama, requiring more light than most plants but less water, humidity, and fertilizer.



Winter Composting the 3-Bucket Way

It’s cold outside and the compost pile is frozen. Do you really feel like hauling kitchen scraps out into the winter wasteland only to have them picked through by scavengers when there isn’t enough bacteria available to break them down? Fortunately, there is an alternative. Keep your kitchen scraps cooking this winter and producing buckets of black gold for the garden next spring while you stay warm and cozy. Try the three-bucket system in your basement or heated garage – no odor, no pests and very easy!

The 3-Bucket System

Try these easy steps for the 3-bucket composting system in your basement or heated garage, where there is just enough warmth to keep the system operating without the microbes and outer layers of the compost freezing. Five-gallon painter buckets with lids work great or plastic trash cans with lids make the job a cinch. Even better are cans with wheels, so you can easily move your compost out to the garden for spring use!

  1. Fill bucket #1 with sawdust or peat moss mixed with equal parts dry soil. Add a little limestone and cover with lid.
  2. On the bottom of bucket #2, place about one inch of dry straw, leaves or shredded newspaper. Dump your kitchen scraps on top as they become available, each time sprinkling on some of the sawdust/soil mixture from bucket #1 to absorb odors and excess moisture. If you have a lot of scraps to add all at one time, portion them out and add as smaller amounts, covering each addition with the sawdust/soil mixture. Replace the lid after each addition. If there are any large pieces of scraps you may want to chop them smaller before adding to help speed the decomposition process. If your scraps are holding excess water, let them drain well before adding them to the bucket.
  3. When bucket #2 is full start filling bucket #3, using the same process you used with bucket #2. By the time bucket #3 is full, the contents of bucket #2 should be well on the way to becoming compost. Despite calling this the 3-bucket system, you can actually keep adding as many buckets as you need through the winter, but number them appropriately so you can keep track of which ones are most composted to be used first.
  4. Use and enjoy in the spring!

While the 3-bucket compost system won’t replace your compost pile, it’s still a great way to continue composting through the winter so you have plenty of rich, organic material to add to your garden in spring. Don’t let the scraps and waste from winter days be lost in the trash – turn that trash to treasure for your garden!

Composting

Rotating Your Vegetable Crops

Whether you just plant a few tomatoes, herbs and some lettuce or an elaborate garden complete with exotic selections of lesser known veggies, you’ll want to rotate your crops each year. All types of vegetable crops – brassicas, onions, legumes and root crops – require a slightly different blend of nutrients and trace elements, even if their light and water requirements are similar. If you always grow your tomatoes in the same place, eventually the soil will become exhausted of the nutrients that tomatoes require the most, and the crop will become weaker and less productive. Meanwhile, another vegetable could easily thrive in that location and its growth would help replenish the nutrients that tomatoes may need in future years. If you rotate crops in and out, you’ll enrich the soil and enjoy larger, more productive, more flavorful harvests.

The easiest way to rotate your vegetables is to use a 3-year plan. First, you’ll need to decide which vegetables you plan to grow, then divide them into these three main groups:

Group 1:
Peas
Beans
Celery
Onions
Lettuce
Spinach
Sweet Corn
Tomatoes
Zucchini

Group 2:
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Rutabaga
Turnip
Radishes

Group 3:
Beets
Carrots
Parsnips
Potatoes

It’s all right if you don’t plant to grow vegetables from each group. Simply adjust your rotation plan to compensate, or even consider trying out a new vegetable to complete the rotation and expand the variety of your garden.

Next, draw a plan of your garden and mark where each group of plants will go, keeping in mind the light and watering requirements of different varieties. It may help to sketch out the boundaries of each group, noting which plants are part of which rows, boxes, containers or beds. Keep those notes and sketches in your garden journal, and also take notes throughout the growing season about which plants perform best and which may be struggling. Next year, move the plants accordingly to shift where different crops are located. If you choose to add new vegetables to your garden, start them in the location with their appropriate group and bring them right into the rotation scheme.

As you rotate crops each year, you will notice consistently lush, healthy plants, bountiful harvests and delicious produce. After a few growing seasons, rotating your vegetable crops will be second nature and will be an important part of your gardening plan to ensure only the best comes from your garden.

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rotating-crop-2

Anti-Desiccants: Why, What, and When

You’ve removed late-autumn weeds, layered on the mulch, pruned appropriately, possibly even covered or wrapped your plants – so why do some still die in the winter, despite all your well-meaning efforts?

Many plants die during winter because they dry out, or desiccate. As temperatures drop, the ground freezes and plant roots cannot take water from the soil, no matter how much snow may fall. This causes the plant to use stored water from the leaves and stems as part of the transpiration process, during which water exits the plant through the leaves. If the sun is shining or the wind is blowing, transpiration increases and more water exits the leaves. If no water is available and transpiration continues, the plant will soon die. Because evergreen plants do not drop their leaves, they are especially susceptible to this death.

Preventing Desiccation

How can you help your plants stay well-hydrated through the frozen drought of winter? The first step is to remember healthy plants in the summer survive the hardships of winter far better than sickly or stressed plants. Through the spring, summer and fall, you should always be on the lookout for signs of pests, diseases and damage, and take all necessary steps to keep your plants thriving.

Second, be sure to water well even when temperatures begin dropping below freezing. Later, if the ground thaws, water before the ground refreezes. Water slowly to provide a deep drink without waterlogging the roots, however, so they are not damaged by ice.

The third step is to use an anti-desiccant, also called an anti-transpirant, to reduce the moisture loss from the leaves and needles. Because broadleaf evergreens such as boxwood, aucuba, holly, rhododendron, many laurels, Japanese skimmia and leucothoe do not drop their leaves, they are especially vulnerable to winter death. Using a product such as Wilt-Pruf to reduce transpiration by protecting the pores will save many broadleaf evergreens.

When using any horticultural product, be sure to check the label and follow all instructions properly. Some conifers such as cedar, cypress, juniper and pine may benefit from these products. However, be sure to read the instructions to prevent burning specific conifers. Also, do not use on “waxy” blue conifers, such as blue spruce, which already have an oily protective film on the nettles.

Here are a few reminders to get the best protection from an anti-desiccant:

  • Plan to apply when day temperatures begin dropping below 50⁰ Fahrenheit. Apply when temperatures are above freezing on a dry day with no rain or snow anticipated within 24 hours. This allows the product to thoroughly dry. Spraying in freezing temperatures will cause plant damage.
  • Do not spray conifers until thoroughly dormant, generally in late winter. This prevents trapping moisture in the needles which could burst when frozen.
  • Generously apply to dry leaves and needles. Don’t forget the undersides. Spray from several angles to ensure complete coverage.
  • Because the anti-desiccant will break down in light and warmth, reapply in late winter on a dry day when temperatures are above freezing for at least 24 hours.

Beyond Winter Drought

Other than protecting your landscape evergreens from winter drought, there are other uses for anti-desiccants. Many gardeners use it to protect newly transplanted shrubs from drying winds and sunshine as they settle in. It also provides protection to tender bulbs going into storage. A quick spray in early winter protects rose canes and hydrangea stems. Spraying onto live or cut Christmas trees and carved pumpkins slows the drying process, making them last longer for greater holiday enjoyment.

AntiDesiccant_1AntiDesiccant_2AntiDesiccant_3

Vermicomposting

Have you tried vermicomposting, otherwise known as worm composting? This simple process mixes food scraps with yard waste and other organic materials in an enclosed area containing specific types of worms. The worms (and associated microorganisms) eat the organics and turn them into a beautiful light and fertile soil amendment. This compost is almost magical! It’s packed with nutrients, improves soil structure, increases drainage and appears to improve plant growth while decreasing pest damage and plant diseases. Not only environmentally friendly, vermicomposting doesn’t require much space, is inexpensive and easy, and it’s a fun hobby for the entire family.

The Worms

The two recommended worms for vermicomposting are Red Wigglers (Eisenia fetida) and European night crawlers (Eisenia hortensis). The latter grows bigger, eats coarser food and may be heartier. They each eat their own weight in food every other day. Do not use native earthworms, as they do not live well in bin conditions.

Most people begin with 1 lb (16 ounces) of worms. These will eat 8 ounces of food every day.

TIP: To determine your average daily food waste, weigh your food debris each day for a week. Add these amounts and divide by 7. (Do not include meat, fish, oily scraps, fat chunks, bones, or dairy products, as they are not suitable for the worms or compost.)

When you know your amount of food debris, buy twice as many pounds of worms. For example, if your average daily food debris is 1 pound, order 2 pounds of worms. If your average daily food debris is 4 ounces, order 8 ounces of worms.

The Worm Bin

Your worms will need a comfortable place to live. Provide a bin with a surface area that equals the weight of the worm order. In other words, if you order 2 pounds of worms, your worm container will require at least 2 square feet of bin surface (but should be larger). This could be 1’ wide by 2’ long.

Use non-treated wood, plastic, rubber or galvanized bins. A larger container houses more worms to compost more material. Worms do not burrow deeper than 24” therefore the bin should be less than 24” deep.

The bin needs a removable cover to protect from rain, light and drying out. Remove it if the bedding becomes too wet, but place a screen across the top to prevent worms from escaping. If needed, use a moistened strip of burlap or canvas to add moisture to the bin.

Unless using wood, which is naturally porous, provide ventilation in your bin by drilling 12-18 1/8” holes on all four sides. Drill holes on the bottom to prevent your worms drowning if moisture builds up.

Remember, your worm population will increase. When sizing your bin, allow an additional 40 percent of surface area for the increase in addition to the initial population’s requirement.

Positioning Your Bin

Where you put your bin should be convenient for both you and your worms. Elevate the container on bricks to improve ventilation and drainage of excess moisture.

Place the worm bin where it will not receive direct sunlight. In a shed or garage, under house eaves or other shade structure to maintain a temperature above freezing and below 85 degrees is perfect. In the winter, prevent freezing and insulate with sheets of foam on the top and sides, add a heating pad to one side, or move inside a building if needed.

Bin Bedding

Before adding your worms, you will need to add bedding to the container so they have a place to burrow. Soak and squeeze out the excess water from shredded fibrous materials such as newspaper, egg cartons or single-layer cardboard boxes. Mix in dry grass, brown leaves and/or straw. Add sawdust or aged manure, if available. Cover with a thin layer of well-moistened soil. This bedding will give your worms a great start and will help feed your compost.

Feeding Your Worms

Until your worms begin multiplying, only feed them once a week by adding a small amount of food scraps. Chopping or breaking food into small bits helps the worms eat the scraps faster and reduces any smells and fruit flies. Mix the food lightly into the bedding on one side of the worm bin.

Ideal foods to offer your worms include eggshells, non-citrus fruits, coffee grounds, unbleached used coffee filters, leafy green vegetables, rice, grits and vegetable scraps. Do not include meat, fish, oily scraps, fat chunks, bones, dairy products such as milk or cheese or cat or dog waste. Avoid eucalyptus leaves, as these contain a natural insecticide which could kill the worms. Additionally, if adding lawn clippings, be sure the grass hasn’t been chemically treated. Green foods such as leaves, vegetable tops and green grass add additional nitrogen to the finished compost. Eggshells increase the calcium in the final compost and brown foods such as paper, wood chips and leaves increase phosphate and carbon. The more varied your worms’ diet, the richer your compost will be.

When the worms begin to multiply, provide a weekly quart of food scraps per square foot of surface area. If your bin is 2’ square, provide 4 quarts of scraps per week to nourish your worms, but avoid overfeeding. One way to tell if you are feeding too much is by smell. If it smells bad, food is rotting instead of being eaten. Reduce the amount of food going into the bin until the smell disappears.

When adding food, be sure to check the amount of bedding. The bin was full of bedding when the worms were added. When reduced to half, add more newspaper or cardboard strips, hay, straw, etc.

Watering Your Worms

Check the bin every other day and moisten the material, if needed. It should be moist but not wet. Note that the types of scraps you add will contribute to the moisture in the bin, and you do not want any puddles or sopping that could suffocate and drown your worms.

Harvesting Compost

Your worm-assisted compost should be ready in 4-6 months. The easiest way to collect the compost is to scoop out small piles of the material and place onto a flat surface. Remove as many worms as possible and return the un-composted materials and worms to the bin. You may use a wire mesh netting as a screening device. Add more bedding and let the cycle begin again.

After removing the worms and chunks, what’s left? The grand prize of worm castings (poop)! This is the “magical compost.” Some people even call it “black gold” – it’s that fantastic for your garden.

Raising worms and producing your own super compost is easy and fun. Plus, it removes food waste from the local landfills and enriches your garden. What’s not to love?

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The Urban Jungle

No matter what the size or style of your own personal urban habitat, you can add stunning nature with the right houseplants. Furthermore, when you grow your own urban jungle, you can realize and enjoy all the benefits houseplants bring to your home.

Benefits of Urban Houseplants

Houseplants bring a range of benefits into any home with every leaf and bloom. Not only do plants improve oxygen levels by drawing carbon dioxide from the air, they also remove other pollutants and odors, particularly in smaller urban homes where airborne toxins may be more concentrated. Houseplants also lower dust levels and improve humidity indoors, which can help alleviate allergies, respiratory conditions, dry skin, and other health problems. Larger houseplants help dampen unwanted sounds, creating a more tranquil atmosphere. Studies have also shown that houseplants improve mood and relaxation by providing a tangible connection to nature, which can help reduce depression and Seasonal Affective Disorder. With so many benefits, adding even one or two houseplants to your home can help create more positive, enjoyable surroundings, and a full urban jungle can become your sanctuary in the city.

Best Plants for an Urban Home

There are many types of houseplants to choose from, any of which will bring numerous benefits to your home. Before choosing, however, consider the levels of sunlight in your home, as well as changing light levels throughout the year, to be sure you can provide adequate light for a particular plant to flourish. Overall room temperatures can also affect plants, as some thrive in cooler climates while others prefer warmer rooms. Note the available space you have and choose a plant that won’t soon become crowded or cramped, which can inhibit growth. Also be aware of the ongoing care each plant will need and whether your schedule will permit you to maintain the plant well, or if you need a plant that is a bit more forgiving of neglect.

The top houseplants that thrive in urban households include:

  • African violets
  • Cacti
  • Cast iron plant
  • Dracaena species
  • Dumb cane
  • Ferns
  • Golden pothos
  • Lucky bamboo
  • Peace lily
  • Snake plants
  • Spider plants
  • Succulents

Depending on the size of your home and how green your thumb is, you may choose to start with just one or two houseplants, or you could opt for an entire jungle. Ideally, one medium-sized houseplant is best for every 100 square feet of living space to keep the air clean, but you can have as many or as few plants as you wish for your happiness.

Caring for an Urban Jungle

It is easy to keep houseplants lush, but they do need dedicated care to stay healthy.

  • Choose a Proper Pot – The pot should be the right size for your houseplant. A too-small pot will cramp the plant and inhibit growth, while a too-large pot will encourage overgrowth and legginess on different plants. The pot should also have suitable drainage to keep the root system healthy and avoid rot.
  • Use Good Quality Soil – Rather than outdoor soil that may not be as rich and could bring pests into your home, opt for a good quality potting mix formulated for houseplants. These mixes will often have moisture-retention beads or fertilizer pre-mixed into the soil, making houseplant care easier. You can also look for specialty blends for cacti, succulents, flowering plants, and other specific types of houseplants.
  • Water Appropriately – Overwatering or underwatering can be deadly for houseplants. Check your plant’s specific watering needs and adjust watering as needed for different seasons. Choosing self-watering pots or using globe watering stakes can also help keep a houseplant safely watered.
  • Feed Regularly – Houseplants need occasional fertilizer applications to supplement the nutrition they draw from their potting soil. Choose a liquid fertilizer formulated for your specific plants and follow application instructions on the product label. Most houseplants’ nutritional needs are reduced during the winter months.
  • Provide Sufficient Light – Different houseplants have different sunlight needs. Some will do very well in shadier spots, while others need filtered light or even a few hours of bright sunlight. Moving plants to different locations in different seasons can help them get adequate light and rotating the pots will help plants grow straight without stretching to reach the sun.
  • Position Safely – Place houseplants away from hazardous situations such as areas where they may be accidentally tripped or tipped over. Avoid creating your urban jungle near heating or cooling vents and cold winter drafts. Keep houseplants out of reach of pets that may nibble on leaves or dig in pots.
  • Prune as Needed – Keep your urban jungle looking tidy by pruning and trimming plants to maintain their shapes or remove dead leaves. Brown tips can also be trimmed for a neater appearance but avoid vigorous pruning that could stress the plant.
  • Watch for Pests – Fungus gnats, mealybugs, spider mites, and other pests can invade even the most well-protected urban jungle. Stay alert for any pests and take steps immediately if they do appear. Plant-friendly insecticidal soaps, top dressing treatments, neem oil, and other control options are available depending on which pests are present.
  • Clean Your Plants – Refresh houseplants and brighten your urban jungle with regular cleanings. Dust, dirt, and other debris can gather on plants’ foliage, clogging respiratory pores and dulling the plants’ color. A quick rinse in the shower or regular dusting with a moistened cloth and a gentle hand can keep plants looking their best.

Your urban jungle can bring you many benefits, whether you just have one or two houseplants, a simple plant collection, or an elaborate nature sanctuary in your home. By choosing the best plants for urban living and providing them with proper care, they will in turn nurture you and help you reconnect with nature, no matter where you live.

Urban Jungle 1

Urban Jungle 2

Urban Jungle 3

Urban Jungle 4

Pet-Friendly Houseplants

Many pet owners are surprised to learn that some popular houseplants are toxic to pets. Fortunately, there are many beautiful, pet-friendly houseplants that can create an urban jungle that won’t endanger your pets.

Top 15 Pet-Friendly Houseplants

There are a variety of plants, ranging from easy-care for beginners to the more challenging for experienced growers, that are pet-friendly. The top choices, suitable for homes with both dogs and cats include…

  1. Air Plants – Petite and low-maintenance, air plants or tillandsia varieties come in different shapes and colors, and make great statement pieces in offices, bedrooms, or any space. They’re ideal for beginners, and work well attached to driftwood, rocks, or set in a terrarium.
  2. Spider Plant – A great plant for beginners because of its forgiving nature, the spider plant may have either striped or plain foliage that cascades in elegant curves. This easy-care plant looks best when hung or may be perched on a pedestal for a similar effect.
  3. Ponytail Palm – While this palm-like plant is actually part of the agave family, it is an excellent air purifier and its long, slender foliage adds welcome variety to a houseplant grouping. This plant prefers full sun and can grow up to four feet tall indoors.
  4. African Violet – A classic blooming houseplant with rich purple, pink, magenta, or white flowers and broad, velvety leaves, the African violet is a pet-friendly favorite. These colorful plants are compact, making them great for smaller spaces in the urban jungle.
  5. Boston Fern – The delicate, feathery foliage of the Boston fern prefers filtered light and a higher humidity environment, making it great in bathrooms. Hang the plant to show off its foliage to best effect, or perch it on top of a bookshelf or pedestal instead.
  6. Wheat Grass – Also called cat grass or pet grass, is a lawn-like houseplant that is fun for pets to nibble at. While wheat grass is relatively easy to grow, it does require regular “mowing” with appropriate shears to stay full and lush.
  7. Cast Iron Plant – This extremely hardy plant is great for beginners and tolerates all types of neglect, including low light, low humidity, and irregular watering. This makes it a wonderful houseplant for anyone just starting with plants or who find it difficult to offer scheduled care.
  8. Polka Dot Plant – The colorful splashes of pink on this plant’s foliage make it a bright addition to any indoor jungle, and it can be a pet-friendly alternative to the highly toxic poinsettia during the holidays. Bright, indirect light is best to help this plant keep its fun coloration.
  9. Blue Echeveria – This popular succulent is also known as hen-and-chicks and works best in bright light but with low watering. The entire echeveria family of succulents is pet-friendly, so feel free to try different varieties for more colors, sizes, and shapes.
  10. Bromeliad – These bold plants have colorful blooms and dramatic foliage, making them favorite statement pieces in the urban jungle. Bright light will help bring out the most color, and good airflow will help keep the plant free of pests and other problems.
  11. Prayer Plant – The colorful, striped foliage of the prayer plant, plus its unique habit of “folding” its foliage at night, make it a houseplant favorite. Bright, indirect light and high humidity will help keep this plant healthy and lush.
  12. Donkey’s Tail – A dramatically draping succulent, donkey’s tail is best displayed where its trailing can be fully appreciated, such as hanging the plant or placing it on a taller ledge, such as a shelf, so it has room to shine. This is an easy-care option perfect for anyone starting with succulents.
  13. Moth Orchids – While many orchids can be challenging, Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, is easy to grow and a great orchid for the beginner. Phalaenopsis Orchids are and are available in white, pink, and mauve, some even have unique marking on their petals.
  14. Haworthia – A spikey succulent similar to aloe, this dramatic plant is an eye-catching option in any home. There are several varieties available, most with white stripes, bars, or stippling to give the plant additional drama and color.
  15. Basil – If you prefer fresh herbs for tasty meals, basil is a low-maintenance, pet-friendly choice that is deliciously fragrant and ideal for sauces, stews, and salads. Other pet-friendly herbs include rosemary, thyme, and sage.

Protecting Your Houseplants From Pets

It’s important to remember that even if a houseplant is considered pet-friendly, pets that nibble on the foliage may have some digestive trouble, particularly if they were to eat a large quantity of the plant. Furthermore, pets can stress plants by tipping pots, laying on the plant, digging in the dirt, or otherwise disturbing the plant. For the safest relationship between your houseplants and your pets, you can take several steps to help them get along.

  • Position houseplants out of reach of pets, or in a room pets are not permitted to enter.
  • Train pets to leave houseplants alone and reinforce that training whenever necessary.
  • Use heavier clay, concrete, or ceramic pots that pets will be unable to easily tip.
  • Use stones as a top dressing so pets are unable to dig in the plant’s soil.
  • Spray the pot or foliage with bitter apple or other pet repellant sprays if needed.

Houseplants can be just as much a part of your family as any four-legged, furry family members, and by choosing pet-friendly houseplants, your pets can get along with your urban jungle just fine.




New Year Gardening Resolutions

As a new year begins, so do our garden plans. Winter is now halfway through; day length is increasing, and exhilarating notions of having the best garden ever consume our thoughts almost daily. Here are some resolutions to help make your dreams come true this gardening season.

  • PLAN – A little garden planning goes a long way. Layout your garden design for vegetables, herbs, and flowers, even trees and shrubs, to maximize space, efficiency, and beauty.
  • IMPROVE – Healthy soil equals healthy plants. A soil test will tell you what needs improvement. Add the recommended amendments to feed both the soil and plants for a vibrant, beautiful, and productive garden. Resolving to stick to a regular weeding, feeding, and watering schedule will also help improve your garden results.
  • START – There’s just something special about starting seeds indoors. Maybe it’s the improved cultivar selection, the excitement of beginning a new gardening year, or simply getting your hands in the soil during the winter months. Whatever the reason, it’s beneficial to get a jumpstart on the season by starting and growing seedlings under grow lights.
  • TRY – This year, resolve to try something new every season. Experiment with one unusual vegetable, herb, or flower. This is an excellent way to increase both plant and garden knowledge and may result in a delightful, unexpected outcome.
  • ATTRACT – Plant more bee-friendly plants to attract pollinators. Some of the best plants for this purpose are native. Be sure to include early, mid, and late-season bloomers to ensure that veggie plants are pollinated and producing and to keep pollinators active, plump, and happy all growing season long.
  • IMPART – What greater gift can you impart to children than a lifelong love of gardening? This year, involve the whole family, from youngest to oldest, by giving kids their own small plot, raised bed, or container to plant, nurture, and learn from.
  • PRESERVE – Don’t allow your hard work to go to waste. Harvest fruits, vegetables, and herbs at peak ripeness when they are their tastiest. Preserve the abundance. Can, freeze, or dry extra produce so you can enjoy homegrown all year.

This list will start you on your New Year’s gardening journey. Feel free to add to this list to personalize it. Use it to evaluate your successes at the end of the year and for planning purposes next January as you resolve, yet again, to have the best garden ever!

New Year Gardening
New Year Gardening
New Year Gardening