Was it a bumper crop this year? Do you have tasty fruits, vegetables and herbs overflowing your storage? Now that the harvest is in, the decision needs to be made as to what to do with the abundance.

Years ago, homes had root cellars to store winter squash and root vegetables such as onions, potatoes and carrots to keep them cool and dry for several weeks. As more homes refinish basements into living spaces and more urban gardeners expand their harvest, however, it may be difficult for gardeners to store their harvest this way. So, what can they do?

Here’s a quick little table to help:

• Storing: Only store mature and perfect vegetables. If there are soft spots or bruises, eat immediately or preserve. Leave several inches of stems on winter squash. It’s important to maintain temperatures between 32-40⁰ Fahrenheit with good air circulation and ventilation. To reduce spoilage, the humidity should be between 85-95 percent.

• Freezing: Freezing maintains nutrients, flavor and texture. Most vegetables require blanching (cutting into pieces, a boiling water bath [see times above], followed by immersion into very cold water) prior to putting into freezer bags or containers in the freezer. Maintain a temperature of 0⁰ Most vegetables will store well in the freezer for up to 12 weeks.

• Canning: Best method for vegetables with high water content such as fruits and tomatoes. Hot water baths or pressure cookers seal the contents in sterilized jars. Most vegetables are low acid foods and require using a pressure cooker. Use cleaned, fresh and tender vegetables. Follow all pressure cooker instructions carefully.

• Drying: No special equipment required. Most people use ovens or dehydrators. It’s important to have good air circulation and all vegetables are cleaned and not bruised. Blanching in a hot water bath increases quality and cleanliness. Adding 1/4 teaspoon of citric acid to each quart of water will reduce darkening and discoloration.

• Pickling: Used around the world to preserve foods, pickling also includes relishes and fermentation. Examples include Kim-chi, pickles, sauerkraut and chutneys. Follow all recipes carefully. Most use vinegar to stabilize acidity and prevent bacteria. Some recipes will suggest canning to preserve the product, others will recommend refrigerator or crock storage.

Have specific questions? The National Center for Home Food Preservation has many online publications to assist you.

Winter marks a seasonal change. Our bodies seem to crave deeper, more tantalizing, richer tastes rather than light, bright, fruity flavors of summer. Harvesting vegetables in the late fall, and sometimes into the winter, presents us with bounty for slow, simple and savory cooking. All winter vegetables may be boiled, roasted, grilled, stewed, sautéed, steamed or eaten raw.

Which Vegetables Are Winter Vegetables?

Winter vegetables are generally considered those that are either harvested late in the season or have the capability of being kept for several weeks or months without losing their flavor, texture and nutritional value. Which of these will grace your table?

The cole, or cruciferous, vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips and kohlrabi rank highly for many nutrients including vitamin C, soluble fiber and other nutrients with anticancer properties. Interestingly, boiling seems to reduce the potency of these nutrients, but other cooking methods don’t.

Root crops, including beets and carrots, sustain life around the world. Beets provide folate, nitrates and manganese in dishes such as borscht and pickled beets. Carrots contain diverse vitamins including A, C, K and B6 and antioxidants from carotenoids. Interestingly, recent research suggests many people prefer the flavor of steamed carrots to boiled.

Fennel, with its anise flavor, jazzes up meals throughout the world but is a favorite in Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. It tops nutritional lists with its antioxidant benefits. Try some raw in salads and appetizers.

Celery, related to fennel, adds a distinctive crunch when used in salads as a raw ingredient or a stronger flavor to soups and stews. With a mild taste, celery is versatile in a wide range of dishes, including mashes, stuffings and roasts.

Potatoes and sweet potatoes, long associated with the typical American holiday meal, contain many healthful benefits. According to research, boiling or steaming sweet potato provides the most health benefits; the phytochemicals in them rival that of broccoli. Roasting or baking potatoes is a healthy way to enjoy them, provided you are sparing with the toppings.

Winter squashes, from acorn to pumpkins, also serve as healthy sources of carbohydrates. Because 90 percent of the calories are starch-related, people are surprised at recent studies proving the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and insulin-regulating effects of winter squash. Additionally, the roasted seeds make a delicious and healthful snack.

Winter Vegetable Recipes to Savor

Have you ever wondered how to roast vegetables? It’s easy! Just wash the vegetables, cut into 1″x1″ cubes, and place in mixing bowl. Drizzle over a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and mix to cover all pieces. Place as a single layer in a cookie or roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook at 375⁰ Fahrenheit for approximately 45 minutes or until the desired texture is reached. Jazz it up with cinnamon, garlic, curry, rosemary or any other favorite spice or seasoning mix.

Here are some other recipes to bring these wonderful winter vegetables to your table. Bon appétit!

Roasted Winter Squash Seed and Cheese Ball Appetizer

Step 1: Roast winter squash seeds by cutting the winter squash in half and removing the seeds and stringy “gunk.” Put into a bowl half filled with water and rub between your hands to separate the seeds from the strings. Rinse the seeds again and spread out on a cookie sheet. Use a hair dryer or place in 150⁰ Fahrenheit oven to dry. Stirring every 10 minutes reduces drying time and ensures even drying.

Step 2: When dry, place seeds in bowl and combine with choice of seasonings. Mix thoroughly. Return to cookie sheet. Place in 275⁰ Fahrenheit oven for 10-20 minutes. Watch closely to prevent burning. When cool, chop finely to coat cheese ball.

Seasoning ideas

1. Latino: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. chili powder, 1 tsp. oregano
2. Asian: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. ground ginger, 1 tsp. hot mustard, 1 tsp. honey
3. Holiday: 4 Tbs. melted butter, 2 tsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. nutmeg, 2 tsp. sugar
4. Use your imagination!

Step 3: Make cheese ball.

Ingredients:

2 pkg. (8 oz. each) softened Neufchatel cheese

1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (Low fat)

Directions:

Beat Neufchatel and cheddar in small bowl with mixer until well blended. Refrigerate 1 hour. Shape into ball. Press seasoned winter squash seeds onto cheese ball.

Serve with complimentary crackers, tortilla chips, pretzels or flatbread.

Winter Squash Casserole

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

2 Cups winter squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

3 Tbs. extra virgin olive or macadamia nut oil

1 tsp. orange juice

1 tsp. lemon juice

Directions:

Steam squash chunks, covered, for 7-8 minutes, until just tender

Mix remaining ingredients, pour over squash in bowl

Toss while still warm. Serve.

Other Ideas:

• Cook 1/2 C chopped onion with squash, or
• Add fresh herbs such as basil or rosemary to liquid dressing, or
• Sweeten with 1 tsp. cinnamon and 2 tsp. honey, or
• For Asian flavoring, add 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger, 2 tsp. soy sauce

Super Easy Grilled (or Baked) Cauliflower

1. Remove the leaves. Cut the head in two, core the stem. Place both on large piece of heavy-duty foil.
2. Melt 1/2 Cup butter with 2 tsp. garlic salt and 2 tsp. lemon pepper.
3. Drizzle half of butter mixture over each half and sprinkle each with 3 Tbs. parmesan cheese
4. Rejoin the two halves and drizzle remaining butter mixture on the outside.
5. Fold foil around, creating a ball.

Cook at 350⁰ Fahrenheit for approximately an hour or until soft. Delicious!

One of our sweetest holiday traditions is kissing under the mistletoe, but how much do we really know about this custom or, for that matter, the plant itself?

The Mistletoe Legend

American author Washington Irving discusses mistletoe and its uses in Christmas Eve, along with other holiday festivities during the Twelve Days of Christmas in the early nineteenth century. For kissing under the mistletoe, Irving describes…

“The mistletoe is still hung up in farm-houses and kitchens at Christmas, and the young men have the privilege of kissing the girls under it, plucking each time a berry from the bush. When the berries are all plucked the privilege ceases.”

Another part of mistletoe’s kissing mythology is part of a Norse legend. Frigg, the goddess of love, was so grateful when her son Baldur was raised from the dead (after being killed by an arrow of mistletoe wood), that she praised the plant and promised a kiss to all who passed beneath it.

Stealing a kiss under the mistletoe is believed to have originated in England among servant classes in the late 1700s, and it was considered bad luck for a young lady to refuse such a kiss.

While there are many ancient myths and legends from all over the world surrounding mistletoe, the traditions involving kissing are by far the most favored. Today, both fresh sprigs as well as artificial clusters and topiaries of mistletoe are available as holiday decorations, often mixed with holly or pine sprigs and accented with crystals or ribbons.

The Mistletoe Plant

American Mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) is one of 1,300 species of mistletoe worldwide but one of only two that are native to the United States. Our mistletoe is a semi-parasitic, shrubby plant with oval, evergreen leaves and long clusters of sticky white berries. This plant roots itself in trees and survives mostly off its host’s life support system. But, despite its parasitic tendencies, mistletoe has been a natural part of healthy forest ecosystems for millions of years, and can even promote biodiversity as other seeds stick among the mistletoe and sprout.

Mistletoe is poisonous to people, but the berries and leaves provide high-protein food for many animals. Many bird species rely on mistletoe for food throughout the winter and nesting material in the spring. Butterflies lay their eggs on the plants and use the nectar as food. Mistletoe is also an important pollen and nectar plant for bees.

Pick-up some mistletoe and have a happy holiday!

Fresh cut greens – pine boughs, holly sprigs, mistletoe, etc. – are wonderful for winter and holiday décor, both indoors and out. Extend the life and enjoyment of your fresh greens by following these easy steps:

• SOAK – Immerse greens in cold water overnight or up to 24 hours. The needles will soak up moisture to stay plump and firm. A good location for accomplishing this task is in a utility sink or bath tub, but be sure the water won’t freeze while the greens are soaking. Use only fresh, plain water without any additives or chemicals.
• DRY – Allow greens to drip dry for an hour or so in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. This will remove excess water from the branch ends so they do not leak.
• SPRAY – If desired, spray Wilt-Pruf, an anti-transpirant, on greens when they are finished dripping. This will seal moisture into the needles extending the life of your greens. Do not use this on Princess Pine, and note that this product may change the color of blue-colored cut greens like Colorado Blue Spruce and Blue Juniper. Test the spray on an inconspicuous area first to be sure you don’t mind any changes.
• DRY – Allow the greens to dry thoroughly after spraying and before decorating and hanging or arranging. This will be sure there are no water spots on any of your bows, accent pieces or ornaments that are part of your fresh arrangements.
• COOL – Keep greens in as cool a location as possible, out of direct sunlight and away from any heat source, including heating vents, ceiling fans and air ducts. Moving arrangements of fresh greens onto a cool porch or into a garage each night can help extend their vibrancy.
• BUNDLE – Arrange your fresh greens in dense bundles and bunches, either as wreaths, vase arrangements or swags. As a group, they will help keep each other fresh with slightly higher humidity between each green.
• CLEAN – Keep fresh greens crisp and clean through the holiday season by dusting them lightly. Use only a clean, lint-free cloth without any sprays or chemicals. This will remove dust that may dim the arrangements, but chemicals could damage the greens or change their colors. Do not brush the greens so harshly that you may damage or dislodge their needles, foliage or berries.

With proper care, your fresh cut greens can be stunning holiday decorations for several days or weeks, bringing a touch of nature into your home even when the world is cased in ice and snow.

It’s not unusual for houseplants to become infested with different pests, but with conscientious care, even the most tenacious pests can be controlled. By acting quickly when pests are first noticed, you can completely remove the infestation and keep your houseplants healthy and thriving.

Top 5 Common Houseplant Pests and Controlling Them

Different plants may be susceptible to different types of pests depending on your home’s environmental conditions and the plants’ overall health. These pests, however, are the most widespread houseplant pests….

Fungus Gnats

These tiny, flying pests don’t do any harm to houseplants in their mature, adult form, but fungus gnat larvae live in houseplant soil and feed on organic material. This not only robs the plant of nutrition, but the larvae may nibble on the plant’s roots as well. While they don’t cause much overall damage to an otherwise healthy plant, fungus gnats can be very irritating when they form cloud-like flocks around a plant’s foliage.

Overwatering in rich soil encourages fungus gnats, and they can be notoriously difficult to eradicate. Reducing watering so the top 1-2 inches of soil can dry out is the first step, but it is often best to completely repot an infested plant. The roots should be rinsed carefully to remove any lingering larvae, and if the same pot will be reused, it must be sterilized first. Use well-draining soil or water the plant from the bottom to make the soil less attractive to fungus gnats. You may also mix diatomaceous earth into the soil to deter these pests, add additional perlite to the soil to increase drainage, use a fine gravel top dressing, or apply Bt var. israelensis (Bti or H-14 strain) to organically kill fungus gnat larvae. Another tried and true product for that is Bonide Systemic House Plant Insect Control. This comes in granular form.

Mealybugs

These sap-sucking insects are no more than a half-inch long and have a white or light gray fluffy appearance. They are typically seen along the stems of houseplants, especially in the joints where foliage sprouts. As they suck the plant’s sap, the leaves wither and wilt. Yellowing leaves can also be another sign of a mealybug infestation, particularly if leaves are yellowing throughout the plant rather than just older bottom foliage.

When a houseplant is heavily infested with mealybugs, the fastest way to control the pests is to prune away infected foliage and discard of it carefully. If the infestation is light, however, the bugs can be deterred with a Neem oil spray or rubbing alcohol. Apply the alcohol directly to the pests with a cotton ball or swab to kill them.

Spider Mites

These pests can be very destructive to all houseplants and can be challenging to get rid of. The mites themselves are so tiny that they may not be noticeable even with a heavier infestation, but their webs on the undersides of foliage or stretching between stems will be easier to see. Leaves that show yellow stippling may also indicate a spider mite infestation.

Spider mites thrive in dry conditions, so keeping houseplants’ humidity high is a good way to deter them. Running a humidifier, frequent misting, grouping pots together, and sitting pots on water filled pebble tray are all helpful solutions. When the bugs are present, neem oil spray should be used weekly to remove them and keep them from returning. Alternatively, light cleaning with insecticidal soap is also an effective way to control spider mites.

Aphids

While better known for their outdoor infestations, aphids can also be a problem on indoor houseplants. They are tiny insects, no more than one-eighth of an inch in size and range from green or black to reddish or white. They are very plump insects and get that way as they suck sap from the plant, usually on the foliage or stems. The plant will gradually wilt as it is unable to stay firmly upright while the aphids drain its sap.

Aphids are easily dislodged with a blast of water, so a cleansing shower is a good way to remove many of these pests without any unnecessary chemicals. If the infestation is extreme, it may be necessary to wash the plant gently with an insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids. Neem oil spray can also be effective for controlling aphids on houseplants.

Scale

These insects have a hard, oval-shaped shell that gives them a tough, scale-like exterior as they line up on a plant’s stems in tight clusters, similar to barnacles on a boat’s hull. These pests suck sap from the plant, and then produce a sticky, honeydew residue that can coat the plant and lead to mildew or may attract additional pests.

Your first line of defense is to gently scrape scale bugs off a plant with your fingernail, taking care not to scratch or damage the already stressed plant. Dabbing the insects with swab soaked in rubbing alcohol or spraying with neem oil can also be effective.

Minimizing Houseplant Pests

No matter which pests may be a problem, it’s always best to avoid infestations altogether rather than try to control them after the insects have already made an appearance. To minimize the risk of bugs taking over your houseplants…

• Purchase new plants only from a reputable retailer, like Poor Boy’s Garden Center , that offers proper care to the plants and can offer support for any problems after purchase.
• Inspect new plants carefully before purchasing and avoid plants with signs of pests.
• Quarantine any new plant for at least a week to be sure it doesn’t have any unwanted guests, including outdoor summer plants that will overwinter as houseplants.
• Use high quality, well-drained potting soil for all houseplants, rather than garden soil that isn’t sterilized and can even harbor pests.
• Provide houseplants with optimum care so they are not stressed as stress can make them more susceptible to pest infestations.
• Sterilize all houseplant equipment regularly, including pots that will be reused, pruners and shears, and watering cans, to be sure no pests are carried between plants.
• Stay alert at all times for signs of possible insect infestations. The faster you are able to act, the easier it will be to control these unwanted guests.

It can be frustrating to find pests on your houseplants, but with careful monitoring and appropriate control measures, your plants will soon be pest-free.

Although the blooms of summer are a distant memory and the splendor of fall is neatly raked into the compost pile, don’t think your yard has to be dreary from now until spring. Background planting, berries, bark and even blooms are the secrets of a colorful and interesting winter landscape.

Background Planting

Evergreens are the mainstay of the winter landscape. When the shade and flowering trees and shrubs of spring and summer have entered their winter sleep, it’s evergreens that take the stage. Spruce, cedar, pine, hemlock, arborvitae, yew and juniper – there are many beautiful varieties suitable for foundation or specimen planting, windbreaks, screens and groundcovers. Some change into their ‘winter wardrobe’ too: “Reingold” Arborvitae takes on a coppery hue, while junipers like “Bar Harbor” and “Prince of Wales” turn bronzy purple. Don’t forget broad-leaved evergreens for texture contrast, plus make use of evergreen perennials like Coral Bells (Heuchera), Thrift (Armeria), Creeping Phlox, Candytuft (Iberis) and varieties of Sedum for groundcover or edging. A few ornamental grasses such as Blue Fescue retain their color in winter and can create interesting and colorful tufts in a barren landscape. The foliage and flowers of others, like Miscanthus and Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), dry to a biscuit color and look particularly effective against a snowy backdrop.

Berries

Berry-bearing plants are a boon for birds and other wildlife, as well as being a decorative addition to the winter landscape. Try prickly Pyracantha, colorful cotoneaster and hardy hollies – a must for holiday decorating. Hollies come in many shapes and sizes for all sorts of landscaping situations. Plant a dwarf grower like “Blue Angel” (Ilex meserveae ‘Blue Angel’) as a foundation plant, a medium grower like “China Girl” (Ilex cornuta ‘China Girl’) as a screen or hedge and a tall grower like “Nellie Stevens” (Ilex) as a specimen. Hollies require a male pollinator for best berry production. Be sure and ask which pollinator you need for the variety you select.

Bark

The beautiful bark which many trees and shrubs exhibit can be seen at its best during winter, when leaves have fallen and surrounding plants are bare. Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum) is a delightful small specimen tree with reddish-brown bark that exfoliates in thin papery sheets. Consider white-barked European or Himalayan Birch or water-loving River Birch with its eye-catching grey-brown to cinnamon colored peeling bark. For attractive mottled trunks, plant Stewartia and Crepe Myrtle. The dazzling stems of Red and Yellow Twig Dogwood brighten as the winter progresses bringing cheer to dreary days. Twig Dogwoods look particularly stunning when planted in groupings in front of evergreen trees.

Blooms

Even in the middle of winter, there are a few plants that will surprise us with flowers. Perennial Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) has pretty white buttercup-like flowers; its cousin, Lenten Rose (H. orientalis) blooms a little later with flowers ranging from purplish green to white and pink. Both are shade-loving and grow slowly to a loose evergreen clump. Witch Hazel (Hammamelis mollis) is a large, multi-stemmed shrub with fragrant late winter blooms in yellow, orange or red. Other late winter bloomers, all of which are also fragrant, include Leatherleaf Mahonia (Mahonia bealii), Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and Sweet Box (Sarcoccoca).

Stop by early next season and talk to us about planning your landscape to include background plantings, berries, bark and blooms for winter interest. Your yard will never have the winter doldrums again!

Do you miss the vibrancy of your flowerbeds and the rich, lush colors of your landscape once winter sets in? With warm weather pots, window boxes and hanging baskets already in place, decorating the outside of your house this winter will be a cinch!

1. Use only containers that are winter safe. Porous pots, like terra cotta, are not a good choice as they tend to crack when they freeze. Better choices include cast iron or aluminum urns, fiberglass or foam containers and cocoa-lined wire hanging baskets and troughs. For a truly holiday look, consider containers that may have red-and-green coloration or other holiday hues, or look for whimsical holiday-themed designs.
2. Use the soil that is already in your containers. Remove just the tops from your previous plantings, allowing their roots to remain in the soil as an anchor for your winter arrangement. OASIS Floral foam is another good choice that works well for smaller outdoor arrangements like those in hanging baskets. You may also need some plant or gardening pins to help keep your arrangement in place and secure.
3. Begin by adding greens to your container (note: your greens will last longer if soaked in Wilt-Pruf for 24 hours before using). Cut branches to the desired length and remove all green needles from the portion that will be inserted into the soil. Create a dense base for your arrangement using either white pine or spruce. Consider allowing some boughs to trail over the edge of the arrangement for more visual interest, or mix up different types of greens for interesting texture.
4. Create a focal point for your arrangement with the addition of a few tall branches of curly willow, Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick, red twig dogwood or white painted birch. Position these taller elements near the back of the arrangement to allow more room for additional plants and decorative items. To add more magic to the arrangement, consider painting taller branches gold or silver.
5. To include additional color and texture, incorporate more winter-themed plants into the arrangement. Magnolia leaves, holly, incense cedar, winterberry, China berry, pepper berry, protea, eucalyptus or other decorative branches and berries are all top choices. Go for a lush, tiered look for the best effect.
6. To bring your arrangement to life add mini white or colored lights, desired ornaments and weather-proof ribbon. For a more whimsical look, consider garlands, candy canes, cranberry strings or even a fairy gingerbread house. Remove these when the holiday season ends and leave the arrangement intact until time for spring planting.
7. You might spruce up around the pot to bring even more notice to your arrangement. Consider a ribbon around the pot, or add light-up gift boxes or wrapped boxes around the pot to create a larger focus.

With just a few steps, the outdoor containers you enjoy in spring, summer and fall can continue to be lovely accents for holiday and winter decoration.

Fresh vegetables don’t have to end as the days grow shorter – fall is a great time to plant an autumn garden to extend the growing season. Many vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower are of a higher quality when grown in the fall, while others, like kale, develop better flavor after a frost. Spinach, chard, kale, collards, mustard and rapeseed all grow rapidly and flourish at the end of the season, ideal for autumn gardening. Loose-leaf lettuces do well, too.

To prepare your bed, immediately pull out whatever plants have finished producing. Spade or till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, rake the area lightly and work in a light application of composted manure or 5-10-5 fertilizer to provide adequate nutrition for rapid-growing fall veggies.

Broadcast a mixture of seeds like mustard, kale and rapeseed, or combine seeds of several types of lettuce like curly leaf, red leaf and oak leaf to allow you to harvest your salad already mixed. It works best to plant greens in blocks or wide rows, because they’re easier to harvest and you’ll have fewer weeds. If you plant blocks each time a new space opens up, you’ll have staggered plantings that can produce over a long time.

Some autumn vegetable varieties will tolerate cold better than others. Read seed packets before you purchase them to determine what will be best in your area, but don’t be put off by such notations as chard’s taking 60 days to mature. The greens are good when they’re younger, too.

Water seeds after sowing and keep the ground evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing. Seedlings may also need to be sheltered from extreme heat. Protect them by shading them from the sun with Reemay fabric until they are established.

Although insects tend to be less bothersome in late fall, some vegetables in the cabbage family, including mustard, kale and collards, may attract cabbageworms. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) sprays for an organic method of control. As the plants begin to fill out, thin them enough to allow air to circulate and dry off moisture. This helps prevent insect problems too.

Harvest your fall vegetables as soon as the plants reach edible size. Even after the first frosts, you’ll be able to keep harvesting to enjoy the yield of your extended-season garden.

Top Fall Vegetables

• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Swiss Chard
• Collards
• Kale
• Lettuce, Head
• Lettuce, Leaf
• Spinach

Fall is an excellent time to repot many houseplants. Potted plants that have been growing outdoors during the summer have probably grown quite vigorously due to the high light levels and greater humidity. If the top growth of the plant has increased in size by 20 percent or more, it probably should be transplanted into a larger container so the roots can stretch and settle comfortably.

Before You Repot

Before repotting, check the plant and the soil carefully for insects.  Add systemic granules to the soil and spray the leaves with an insecticidal soap to remove any unwanted pests. If an insect infestation is particularly bad, it may be necessary to remove most of the plant’s soil and replace it with fresh potting soil. Avoid using soil from the garden, however, which will harbor insect larvae and eggs as well as weed seeds and other material you do not want in your houseplants.

Acclimating Plants

Bring your plants indoors well before any danger of frost for proper acclimation to the indoor environment. The change in light levels and humidity could shock more delicate plants, and they may wilt temporarily or drop leaves before they adjust to the new conditions. If possible, bring them in just a few minutes at a time for several days, gradually increasing their indoor time to several hours before keeping them indoors all the time. Flowering tropicals will also benefit from cutting back some of their foliage to avoid shock before being brought indoors.

To help houseplants overcome the transition from outdoors to indoors, position them in a bright, sunny area and consider adjusting indoor temperature and humidity controls to more closely mimic outdoor conditions. Make adjustments slowly and gradually, and the plants will adjust.

Time to Repot

Once your houseplants are adjusted to their indoor fall and winter environment, they can be safely repotted without adding to their stress. Repot the plants early in the day, and move them to a slightly larger pot. Avoid jumping several pot sizes, which could lead to excessive root growth while the foliage is neglected. Be sure to fertilize and water the plants appropriately to provide them proper nourishment as they settle into new pots. Do not expect luxuriant foliage growth right away, however, as it will take some time for the plants to begin growing again, especially in fall and winter when most houseplants are entering a dormant, slow growth period.

By repotting your houseplants in fall, you can help healthy, vigorously growing plants adjust to a new environment and continue their growth with ease in a new, larger, more comfortable pot.